Is Riga Worth Visiting? (Yes!)
Introduction
Latvia is one of the three Baltic countries alongside Lithuania and Estonia. I spent a few days in the capital Riga, and will provide some information here and opinions on whether it is worth visiting.
Spoiler: Yes.
Just like neighbouring Tallinn and Vilnius, Riga is a small capital with a lot to offer in terms of both beauty, and things to do. Latvia is in my opinion, one of the best European countries to visit alone, and Riga is a big reason why.
Read on if you are interested in some background on Latvia, tips on visiting the country, and finding out about the best things to do in Riga. Plus a mini accommodation review of the hostel I stayed in (Cinnamon Sally’s).
Background on Latvia
You could almost copy and paste the recent history for Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania. All three nations followed a similar path since the 1900s.
They were all members of the Russian Empire, before gaining independence in 1918. They all had around 20 years of relative stability. Only for WWII to break out which led to occupation by both the Soviet Union (USSR) and Nazi Germany. It was the Soviets who came out on top. And this meant Latvia was part of the USSR up until the collapse of communism in 1991.
The Soviet Occupation of Latvia and WWII
It was in 1939 that the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact was signed between Germany and the USSR, splitting all countries between the two into either the German or Soviet sphere of influence. Latvia was placed inside the Soviet sphere, meaning the USSR effectively took control of the country.
Most Germans left Latvia for German-assigned countries such as Poland. Whereas the USSR wasted no time in making Latvia a major Soviet military stronghold with up to 30,000 troops based in the tiny territory.
In June 1941, Nazi Germany launched Operation Barbarossa. They sent 10,000,000 troops into Soviet territory (the largest land invasion in human history) with the aim of driving the natives into Siberia and exterminating the Slavic people.
Latvia was caught right in the middle and came under German occupation for three years, with mass deportations and exterminations taking place.
The Soviets came back in 1944 as Nazi Germany overstretched itself. The Nazis took on too many battles, making too many enemies, which severely impacted on their ability to continue attacking their neighbours.
When the USSR returned, they clamped down on anti-collectivist activities, and sent many individuals with anti-Soviet views or values to freezing-cold gulags.
Latvia was a bleak place to live for the next fifty years. But finally, communism began to collapse in the late 1980s before completing falling apart in the early 1990s.
The Singing Revolution and Latvian Independence
In the late 1980s, Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev introduced the famous political reforms known as glasnost and perestroika. These were about transparency and installed freedoms, not see since the 1930s, across the Soviet Union.
Suddenly, large protests took place across the Baltics. Protests that had previously been banned.
The Singing Revolution took place from 1987-1991, ending with independence from the USSR.
It involved a series of pro-democracy protests across the Baltic nations.
Perhaps the most notable of these was the Baltic Way.
Two million people across the three occupied countries held hands to form a giant human chain stretching from Estonian capital Tallinn, right through Riga, all the way to Vilnius in Lithuania. This was one of the largest human chains in history.
It was intended as a protest against Soviet rule. One of the main messages behind the protest was that the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact was illegal. And therefore so was the Soviet occupation of the Baltics for over 40 years.
All three Baltic nations claimed the pact was null and void. They claimed this meant Soviet laws didn’t apply. The Soviets had painted a picture of the Baltic countries happily relinquishing control to the USSR believing it to be in their best interests. This was not the case.
Under Molotov-Ribbentrap, there was a secret protocol. It was under this, that the Baltic countries and other neighbours had been assigned to the German or Soviet sphere of influence. This only became confirmed public knowledge decades after the war.
Finally, Latvia and its neighbours celebrated independence in 1991.
Under Latvia’s new system with more democracy, pro-independence representatives controlled two thirds of the Supreme Council. They voted to restore Latvia’s independence, and declared the Soviet occupation illegal. A transition period began. Latvia was a free country once again.
Westernisation and Modern Latvia
In the post-Soviet years, Latvia followed the same path as many other ex-communist countries in Europe. They wanted to distance themselves from Russia and align with the two biggest westernised institutions: NATO and the EU.
Latvia joined both in 2004. Joining NATO in particular has helped alleviate fears that Vladimir Putin will attempt to fulfill his dreams of rebuilding the USSR. The 2008 invasion of Georgia and the 2022 Ukraine War (actually it started in 2014, it just expanded in 2022) have shown Russia is serious about pushing to achieve these goals. However, the support of major NATO heavyweights such as the UK, USA and Germany act as a major deterrent, and prove Latvia will be no pushover.
Whilst Ukraine is Putin’s main goal for now, Latvia are wary that he will move onto other targets. Although chances are he will target a return to Georgia, or vulnerable Moldova which isn’t in NATO and has lost a chunk of territory to the pro-Russian unrecognised state of Transnistria. Therefore Latvia isn’t at the top of the hitlist, and probably won’t be any time soon.
Is Latvia Safe to Visit?
As with any Baltic country (and most of Central/Eastern Europe), Latvia is very safe to visit. Crime levels here are very low and it would take a great deal of misfortune to fall victim to violent crime or theft.
That being said, low crime does not mean no crime. There have been reports of bars in Riga hitting unsuspecting visitors with extraordinarily high markups when it comes to paying the bill. Scammers have been known to befriend tourists, then lure them into extortionately-priced bars where they will be hit hard financially, and potentially run into trouble when trying to leave.
Westernisation has reached a point in Latvia where it is now illegal to express support for Russia. There is even a hotline to report anyone suspected of being pro-Russian. So if for whatever reason, you have a positive view of Latvia’s giant eastern neighbour, you’re best off keeping it to yourself…
Perhaps the main danger in Latvia is the cold weather. There’s a reason why “Baltic” has become a slang word associated with very cold weather. Too much exposure to the cold can lead to illnesses. In more extreme cases, it can lead to frostbite or hypothermia. Just be sure to wrap up warm in Latvia during the winter and you shouldn’t have any issues.
When is the Best Time to Visit Latvia?
The answer to this question depends on what you’re looking for.
If you want the best weather, go to Latvia from June-September. This is when it will be warmest. Latvia, being based in Northern Europe, is generally a cold country. Visit during these months to experience Latvia in relative warmth. Temperatures average around 14-18 degrees Celcius from June-September.
For skiing, the best time to visit Latvia is from December-March. This is when the snow falls heavily and the temperatures are consistently below zero.
From personal experience, I would say the best time to visit Latvia, and Riga in particular, is December. Riga is worth visiting at this time of year for the Christmas markets alone. Yes it’s cold, however the Christmas markets have a lot of entertainment, with traditional Latvian music and dance performances taking place in the open. Whilst hearty meals are being cooked at many of the surrounding stalls. It’s thoroughly worth visiting Latvia at this point.
How to Visit Latvia
Latvia is a Schengen member, meaning it applies Schengen entry rules.
If you are from any country in Europe or the mainland Americas, you do not need a visa to visit Latvia, with eight exceptions: Belize, Ecuador, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname, Russia, Belarus and Kosovo.
You will need a visa to enter Latvia if you are a citizen of most other countries. Aside from a handful of small (mostly island) countries, these passports will still enable you to enter Latvia without requiring a visa: Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Malaysia and the UAE.
How to get to Latvia
Riga has the only international airport currently (as of December 2023) operating in Latvia. It covers Europe pretty well, with flights to all major countries. It also connects Latvia to all of the Caucasus countries (Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan). Outside of Europe and the Caucasus, you can fly to Uzbekistan and the UAE from Riga.
Regular buses run to Latvia from Estonia, Lithuania and Poland. There are also buses between Latvia and both Russia and Belarus, although the border situation is volatile at the moment (last updated: December 2023). Latvia has stated that it will not close its Russian borders completely, but please be aware the situation could change at any moment. Finland recently (again, updated December 2023) closed borders to prevent Russia sending large numbers of migrants across. As a result, there has been a lot more pressure on the Estonia/Russia border leading to Estonia threatening to close their border with Russia. This means even greater traffic will come towards Latvia. Therefore it’s important to closely monitor the situation if you wish to enter Latvia from Russia or Belarus (who have also participated in similar activities within the last two years).
There are ferries heading to Latvia from both Sweden and Germany. Although these take a long time. It takes over a day to arrive from Germany by ferry, therefore bus may be your better option.
How to get Around Latvia
There is a train network connecting all major cities in Latvia. However, the best way to get around is by bus. This is because the buses connect pretty much the entire country. Latvia is a small country. It will take around 6 hours to drive the entire length of the country. Buses will take longer due to routes and many stops, although this gives a rough idea of how compact Latvia is, and therefore easy to get around.
Riga has tram, trolleybus and bus systems in use to help you get around the capital. Tickets cost 2 euros (£2/$3) for a single journey of up to 90 minutes, and 5 euros (£4/$5) for a 24-hour unlimited use pass. In fact it only costs 30 euros (£26/$33) for a monthly ticket.
However, Riga is small enough to walk around fairly easily, particularly in and around the Old Town.
Is Latvia Cheap to Visit?
Latvia is a very cheap country to visit. Unless you spend a lot on alcohol.
I speak from experience.
As mentioned in the previous section, transport around Riga is very cheap. Transport across the length of the country will cost just over 10 euros (£8/$10).
Accommodation in Riga starts from around £7 ($9) per night for a hostel dorm bed. Private rooms start from around double that. This is true for both Riga and Latvia on the whole.
Food in Latvia is cheap. The capital Riga is also very cheap if you’re looking for dinner. One popular restaurant is LIDO, with several branches in Riga. LIDO costs around £7 ($9) for a buffet full of traditional Latvian food. Most people who ate there loved it. I’m the exception, it was okay, but I didn’t love it. I’m in the minority though, so maybe you’ll enjoy LIDO.
Activities in Latvia are very cheap. Most will range between being free and costing around £10/$13. Even skiing only costs around £25/$32 for a few hours including lift passes plus ski rentals. You’re unlikely to find anything in Latvia that will leave you short on pennies.
Where is Worth Visiting in Riga?
Riga is a small city with a lot of places worth visiting. If there’s one place you should start, it’s with a free walking tour.
Free (tips-based) walking tours are the best way to find your way around in a new destination. A local guide will show you around their city for a couple of hours, they will show you the best spots and introduce you to the history of both their country and city. They will also show you some hidden gems you may not have found otherwise.
On top of this, some tours will add activities such as sampling local foods in a traditional market, or engaging in other local activities. Whilst in Arequipa in Peru, a free walking tour even took me to a llama farm where we were able to feed llamas and alpacas.
In Riga, the free walking tour went into detail about the Soviet occupation period, showed us the less glamourous side of the city on the outskirts which had been hit hard by communism, then ended with some beautiful spots in the city centre.
My number one tip for visiting Riga would be to do a free walking tour. For other cool spots in the capital, read on:
House of the Blackheads
The house was built almost 700 years ago. It was a meeting place for unmarried merchants who formed a guild called the Brotherhood of Blackheads. The Blackheads had strong links to both Riga and Tallinn. They were a military organisation in their early days, committed to defending their homelands from attacks by indigenous Estonians.
As time passed, the brotherhood took on more of a ceremonial role, becoming known more for community events rather than battles.
They were forced to flee the Baltics in 1940 after the Soviet invasion. However most of them relocated to Hamburg in Germany where the organisation still exists today.
The House of the Blackheads was destroyed by Nazi and Soviet attacks during the war. However, a replica was built, being completed in 1999, and stands in Riga today.
It is now a museum and ballroom which is available to hire for major events. The president of Latvia even worked here from 2012-2016 whilst his permanent workplace in Riga Castle was being renovated.
It costs 8 euros (£7/$9) to visit the museum today.
Opera House
The Latvian National Opera is an opera and ballet house located in Riga. Opera is a key cultural activity in Latvia. Singing and dancing are deeply ingrained in the local culture.
Which probably explains why the opera house is one of the most beautiful buildings in Riga.
If you want to watch a performance, they normally last around 2-3 hours, and tickets cost from 15-50 euros (£13-43/$16-55). You can see schedules and buy tickets on the Opera.lv website.
Central Market
Riga’s Central Market is the heartbeat of the local community. Here you can buy all sorts of local foods ranging from meats, to fruits, to sweets and much more.
The market is divided between multiple buildings. Our free walking tour guide said she never takes people to the meat section anymore as several people fainted due to the sights and smells inside. I went to the meat market afterwards and it’s actually pretty tame!
But Central Market is the place to go if you want traditional Latvian food and goods.
Christmas Markets (December Only)
One of the highlights of Riga for me was the Christmas market. I said Central Market is the place to go for Latvian traditions. However the Christmas markets may top that in December. This is because they don’t just have a series of food stalls, and other stands selling Christmas trinkets and decorations. They also have a lot of local entertainment taking place.
There were traditional Latvian folk singers and dancers performing and getting right into the Christmas spirit. Locals would join in, forming a circle as the performers played games and danced with the locals. If there is one place to experience authentic Latvian culture then this is it.
Oh, and don’t forget the hearty meals cooked here to warm you up!
Where to Stay in Riga
Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel (£18/$23 Per Night)
Pros
Almost everything. The beds were comfortable, the rooms were warm, the lockers were a good size, the wifi worked well. They had a good breakfast selection. And the staff were incredibly helpful and friendly. They also arranged lots of social activities, and gave a lot of advice on what to see and do in Riga.
Cons
It’s double the price of other hostels in Riga. Must admit I would not have stayed here had it not been so highly recommended by a friend, given that many of the cheaper hostels also have high ratings.
Also they showed the England vs France World Cup game here during my stay in December 2022 (this definitely wouldn’t be a con if England won…).
Overall
This is a hostel that has been set up with travellers in mind. The owners of this place have clearly been backpacking before and know exactly how to make a hostel that works well for travellers. This is one of the best hostels I’ve stayed in.
The higher cost is absolutely understandable given the quality, but double the cheapest rooms here is a bit high. Therefore I can’t quite give Cinnamon Sally’s a perfect score. But it still gets a 9.5/10 from me. Highly recommended.
Final Thoughts: Is Riga Worth Visiting?
Riga is a magical city that is absolutely worth visiting. Having gone in December, I’m definitely biased, but I would say this is by far the best time to visit.
The Christmas markets in Riga are some of the best in Europe. Despite their small size, they more than make up for it in charm. The traditional dance and music displays make it a unique Christmas market experience, even compared to nearby countries such as Estonia and Finland. Both of those countries had locals performing at Christmas markets. But the difference was that they could have been performing at any Christmas market, singing popular carols and Christmas songs. Mariah Carey and The Pogues aren’t exactly what you’d associate with the Baltics or the Nordics. In Riga on the other hand, it was a quintessentially Latvian experience which sets it apart from the others.
Riga is a very beautiful city. The Old Town is very scenic and there are no shortage of bars and restaurants around the area.
Riga costs a lot less than Paris for example. Whilst it may lack the big-name sights such as the Eiffel Tower or Louvre, it beats Paris on just about every other metric. The costs, the atmosphere, the scenery, the people. Riga comes out top in almost every area. So why not add it to your bucket list for Christmas?
If you want to read tips, stories and more on each country I’ve visited on my journey to every country in the world, check out my blog contents page.
