Is Bahrain Worth Visiting? The Middle East’s Most Liberal Nation
Introduction
Is Bahrain worth visiting?
Are you a traveller or a tourist?
Your answer to the second question may determine the answer to the first.
Perhaps the most famous attraction here is the Tree of Life. This lone 400-year old tree in the desert has survived without water for all that time, making its continued existence a mystery.
Yeah… a tree is the biggest draw of this country for tourists.
If you just want flashy tourist attractions, Bahrain is probably not the place for you. If you want to go somewhere a little off the beaten path, and to dive into a unique culture, then you may well find Bahrain is pretty cool!
Bahrain is a Gulf country many may not have heard of. It is overshadowed by many other Gulf nations. The UAE, most notably Dubai, is the place with all the glamour. Saudi Arabia, Bahrain’s only direct neighbour, is one of the best known countries in the region, primarily for hosting Islam’s holiest cities: Mecca and Medina. Qatar is a major transport hub, and it boosted its profile further by hosting the 2022 World Cup. Kuwait doesn’t quite have the draw or popularity of the other three, but it is still better known than little Bahrain. Oman is often overshadowed by its neighbours, yet again, it has a higher profile than Bahrain. And Iraq is a country known to news channels across the world, synonymous with negative words such as “war” and “terrorism”.
Here I will sum up a little bit about Bahrain: the history, the logistics of getting here, safety, what to do, and whether or not Bahrain is worth visiting.
Background on Bahrain
What is Bahrain?
Bahrain is a tiny island country with a population of under 2 million people. It is connected to Saudi Arabia by the King Fahd Causeway.
Less than half of the population here are actually Bahrainis. The country has a significant South Asian population coming over from the likes of India, Nepal and Pakistan to work in low-paid service and manual labour roles. Compared to back home, the pay is high, which is why workers continue to come over.
As a result, Bahrain can often feel more like South Asia than the Middle East. There are markets and neighbourhoods in the capital Manama which felt far more like India than Qatar or Saudi Arabia. The manic markets, an element of chaos (albeit certainly not to the extent of what you’d find in New Delhi or Varanasi) and unfortunately, a lot of rubbish on the streets… I would say Bahrain is the most South Asian country I’ve been to, outside of South Asia itself.
Historically, Bahrain was a major trade centre. Most notably, a country known for pearl trading. This attracted a lot of interest from outsiders. However, it also made Bahrain a target for many empires. The country switched hands over the centuries between the likes of the Assyrians, Babylonians, and most recently, the British Empire.
Bahrain in the 20th Century
Bahrain was on the side of the Allies during WWII which made its many oil fields a target for the Axis powers.
The country’s role in the war was minor, and it escaped with limited damage. However anti-British and anti-Jewish sentiment began to spread after the war. Riots spread across the country, and most Jews were forced to flee.
In fact the impact of the riots was so bad that less than 40 Jews remain in Bahrain today. The vast majority ended up in Israel, believing they would be safe from violence there.
In 1971, an independence referendum saw Bahrain break away from the British empire. Independence took place on peaceful terms and the tiny country retained good relations with the UK.
The 1970s saw an oil boom which made many Gulf countries incredibly rich. Bahrain was a beneficiary of this, and has since maintained its reputation as a rich country overall. The majority of Bahrain’s poor are the South Asian migrant population. Most indigenous Bahrainis do not have to worry about poverty in any form.
Violence in an Independent Bahrain
Bahrain is a peaceful country. But it has still had its fair share of violent issues ever since independence in 1971.
Inspired by the 1979 Islamic Revolution in Iran which saw the Western-friendly Shah toppled, Bahrain faced its own coup attempts from Bahraini Shiites. The coup failed and Bahrain remained a Sunni nation, just like next door Saudi Arabia.
In the late 1990s, left-wing groups and extreme Islamists banded together to participate in a violent uprising which killed dozens. The uprising ended in 1999 as a reformist leader took control of the country and installed a series of democratic policies including regular elections and allowing women to vote.
Most recently, Bahrain was impacted by the Arab Spring. For those unaware, this was a series of clashes across the Middle East that took place in 2011 attempting to install democracy in each country. Violent clashes erupted all over the region with a variety of mixed results. Perhaps most infamously, the toppling of Colonel Gaddafi in Libya.
Again, the violence was sparked by Shiites hoping to topple the Sunni monarchy. They believed this would achieve democracy in the country, despite the reforms that took place post-1999.
Bahrain has since stabilised and avoided major conflict and street clashes. A large part of this is the fact that Bahrain has a lot of help from major regional allies UAE and Saudi Arabia. The two fellow Sunni states offer a lot of military assistance to their tiny neighbour, which has put an end to violent protests.
More Information on Bahrain Today
Bahrain is an island country, made up of 83 different islands, over a third of this being man made. Although 83 is also the percentage of the country based on the main patch of land – Bahrain Island. This is where capital Manama is based, as are all the main attractions in the country. Not to mention the Kind Fahd Causeway connecting Bahrain with Saudi Arabia.
It has struggled to diversify its economy, with a heavy reliance on oil. Although it is trying to change this. In the 1970s, Bahrain attempted to reposition itself as a financial hub, taking advantage of turmoil and civil war in Lebanon which was the previous financial powerhouse in the region.
More recently, Bahrain has started to build a name for itself in the science world, promoting topics such as human health and biodiversity. It has since launched its own space agency, and is attempting to attract workers interested in interplanetary exploration. Although there is a long way to go before Bahrain becomes a name commonly associated with the world above ours.
Just like almost every other country in the Middle East, Bahrain is a Muslim country. However it has a reputation for being far more liberal than its neighbours, in particular, notoriously strict Saudi Arabia.
Drinking alcohol, banned across much of the Gulf, is legal in Bahrain. In fact the country attracts many visitors from across the Gulf looking to let their hair down with a few pints.
Bahrain has much more lax laws on clothing, with westernised dress commonly seen across the country. It also legalised homosexuality back in 1976.
Relations Between Bahrain and Qatar
The two nearby countries do not get on well. Mostly due to a series of territorial disputes over the years, focusing on tiny islands between the two countries.
Ever since the 1800s, Bahrain and Qatar have both claimed ownership of Zubarah, a small town on the landmass that is currently Qatar. The two argued for many decades over ownership, only for Qatar to win full recognition of ownership in 2001 following an ICJ case. Something which makes a lot of sense when you see where Zubarah is on a map.
This was just one of many disagreements. Fisht Al Dibal was another conflict point. This island is located around halfway between the two countries. Bahrain antagonised Qatar by fortifying the island. Their rival responded by sending in the army who held several Bahraini workers until the two countries reached a settlement. Again, the 2001 ICJ case ruled this was Qatari land, and the dispute has since been settled.
In 2017, the fallout between the two countries was brought into the modern era as Qatar hacked into the Twitter account of the Bahraini foreign minister. Ties were cut between the two nations, and not restored for six years, until April 2023.
When I visited Qatar in December 2022 and made Bahrain my next stop, there were zero transport links between the two countries. Instead I had to travel through Saudi Arabia and get a bus from Dammam to Manama.
Direct transport has opened up since the restoration of diplomatic relations, with regular direct flights now taking place between the two countries.
Is Bahrain Safe to Visit?
Like almost all Middle Eastern countries which are not war zones, Bahrain is very safe. Crime levels are very low, although still high compared to many neighbouring countries. This is due to Bahrain being more liberal, as a result criminals feel they can get away with more, knowing they don’t face the severe punishments Saudi Arabia and others are known for.
Unfortunately, we cannot talk about safety in a Middle Eastern country without mentioning terrorism. Bahrain does not suffer from terrorist attacks any more than other stable Gulf countries. Therefore it is safe to visit in this respect. You do not need to take any extra precautions.
It is worth remembering that Bahrain is still a Gulf country, therefore its laws are only soft in comparison to stricter neighbours. Compared to European countries, Bahrain still seems like a very tough country in terms of crime and punishment. Be sure to behave when you’re visiting Bahrain, and your trip will be worth the long journey.
When is the Best Time to Visit Bahrain?
The best time to visit Bahrain is from November-April. These are the only months when this scorching hot country averages under 30 degrees Celcius. Average temperatures in the summer (July-September) are often above 36 degrees Celcius.
These also tend to be the months with the most rain, although that means little in Bahrain as there isn’t much rain at all throughout the year. Only the UAE, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Libya and Egypt receive less rain than Bahrain’s average precipitation of 83mm per year. For comparison, Colombia has the highest amount of rainfall with 3,240mm per year. This is according to 2020 World Bank stats on rainfall.
How to Visit Bahrain
Bahrain is one of the easiest countries in the world to visit and get a visa for. You can apply for an evisa or collect a visa on arrival (VOA) if you come from almost any country. One exception is Belarus, although Belarusians are still eligible for evisas (just not VOAs).
Only citizens of three countries require a visa in advance to visit Bahrain: Kosovo, Iran and North Korea.
Members of GCC countries (Qatar, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Oman and the UAE) can enter the country with an ID card, and no need to purchase an evisa or VOA.
Be careful whilst applying for a Bahrain evisa. There are many unofficial websites out there, including at the very top of Google’s search results. This is the official Bahrain evisa website.
The Bahrain visa costs 9.000 Bahraini dinars which is around £19/$24. Be aware of the decimal point! It is nine, not nine thousand. This will be an awfully expensive country to visit otherwise. Of this, 4.000 dinars (£8/$11) must be paid regardless of the outcome of the application. The other 5.000 (£10/$13) will be refunded if the application is unsuccessful. I have rounded costs to the nearest £/$ which explains the slight difference in numbers.
How to get to Bahrain
Despite only having one international airport, the tiny country is surprisingly well connected with the rest of the world. Bahrain International Airport (BIA) has flights from all major European countries, as well as many in South Asia and the Middle East. It also flies to a few spots in the Far East, plus African countries Ethiopia, Morocco and Egypt.
Despite that, the European countries it connects to are limited only to the most popular ones. If coming from the Balkans or Nordic countries, you will need to take an indirect route via another country to get here.
The only other route into Bahrain is via the King Fahd Causeway in Saudi Arabia. You can cross either via bus or car. Buses generally come from Dammam, the nearest city to the border. Buses from Dammam to Manama cost 95 SAR (£20/$25) for a one-way ticket. Although you will need a visa to access Saudi Arabia in the first place, which costs a lot more.
The Saudi Arabia visa costs 535 SAR if you get the evisa (£112/$143), or 480 SAR (£101/$128) on arrival. The Saudi Arabia visa also includes insurance. There is a free transit visa, although this currently only applies to air passengers staying in the country for specific timeframes. If you are leaving the country overland, a transit visa is not valid.
How to get Around Bahrain
There are no trains or flights around this tiny country. Your options are bus or car.
If you wish to use buses, check out the official Bahrain Bus website which will have all the schedules and destinations available.
Renting a car is the best option if you wish to cover a lot of the island and move at your own pace rather than relying on bus schedules.
Is Bahrain Cheap to Visit?
Bahrain is an expensive country, as are most of the Gulf countries. Despite that, it isn’t quite as expensive as many of its neighbours.
A trip to Bahrain will cost less than a visit to Saudi Arabia, Qatar or the UAE, and around the same as Jordan.
Accommodation isn’t cheap here. You’re usually looking at a minimum of £30 ($38) to spend one night here. Yes, you can find (marginally) cheaper options on Booking, but have a look at the reviews and you’ll quickly regret going for the cheapest option. I have some horror stories from my accommodation in Manama, more on that later…
Where is Worth Visiting in Bahrain?
In all honesty, there aren’t many places worth visiting in Bahrain, but there are still a few, so let’s cover them here.
Qal’at al-Bahrain (Bahrain Fort)
Perhaps the highlight of the tiny country, certainly for history enthusiasts, is Bahrain Fort. This 4,000-year-old fortification was once the capital of the Dilmun civilisation. In 2005 it became the first of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Bahrain. The Dilmun Burial Mounds and Bahrain Pearling Path are the others.
It’s pretty small, but fun to explore. The highlight was probably the stunning sunsets.
Outside the fort you can see some ancient cannons which have been left behind, and some people were even riding around on horseback when I was there.
Manama Souq
If you’re in the Middle East but looking for a taste of South Asia (without actually flying to South Asia itself of course) then this is the place to be.
This sprawling and chaotic marketplace feels just like a mini India. Quite fittingly, given the “Little India Bahrain” written on the walls around the corner from this market.
It’s certainly a more muted version of what you can expect to find in New Delhi for example. But you will still get pestered every minute or so by merchants trying to draw you towards their stall.
Typical products found here are a combination of what you would expect to find in an Arabic market or an Indian market. Manama Souq fuses the two cultures together.
Perhaps the most Bahraini touch is the flags with images of the royals being displayed.
I would definitely recommend Manama Souq as one of the top places worth visiting in Bahrain.
Tree of Life
Okay, I decided against visiting this one, but it is the most popular attraction in Bahrain so I guess we’ve got to include it.
It is 400 years old and gained attention for being able to survive for such a long period in an arid climate with almost no rain. No other tree survived in this area, which is what made the tree so popular.
The tree attracts 65,000 visitors per year.
Therefore, if you are an amateur travel blogger hoping to reach the 50,000 required monthly sessions to get into Mediavine, fear not. After all, if 65,000 people are willing to travel from afar to see a tree, surely it can’t be that hard to get 50,000 people to click a button and view your website?
Keep going! If a tree in the desert can pick up such a large following, then so can you.
Bizarrely, it was once nominated to become one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Fortunately it missed out on this accolade to slightly more deserving winners such as the Amazon Rainforest, Iguazu Falls and Komodo Island in Indonesia.
Bahrain Grand Prix
Bahrain became the first ever Middle Eastern country to host a Formula 1 Grand Prix in 2004. It has held a race every year since, with the exception of 2011 when an uprising linked to the Arab Spring created chaos across the country and led to the race being cancelled.
The Grand Prix takes place at the Bahrain International Circuit. It is located in Sakhir, around halfway down the country. And it hosts a series of minor racing events when the F1 Grand Prix itself is not in town.
If you wish to take in the country’s biggest sporting event, it is usually held at the beginning of the Formula 1 season in March.
Watching Football in Bahrain
As a massive football fan, one of my goals is to watch a top-level game in every country in the world. In Bahrain I ticked another country off the list. The good news? It was free to enter. There was no ticket office, no one selling tickets, and the locals just waved me straight into the tiny ground.
The bad news? Bahraini football was low on quality and atmosphere. I saw a drab 1-0 defeat for hosts Al-Shabab against Manama. It is worth watching football in Bahrain if you’re a purist like me who just wants to watch football everywhere. Don’t expect the Premier League or Bundesliga here though.
Why You Should be Careful Hunting for Accommodation in Bahrain
Normally I would review all the places I have stayed in during my visit to a country. Then I would offer opinions on whether or not you should stay in them.
I did things differently in Bahrain. I arrived early on a bus from Dammam across the border in Saudi Arabia. Then I walked between each hotel asking for the best prices.
All options were expensive, and after being shown around, I opted for the cheapest one I found. It seemed rundown and a little unclean. But when going for the lowest price, it’s bound to be a little rugged, right?
Naively, I handed over my money for three nights in a hotel I don’t even remember the name of. Normally I wouldn’t write this section when I have no useful information to share. However, my stories serve as a warning to be more vigilant in your hotel hunt, so perhaps there is something useful in here after all…
Manama – ??? (£33/$42 Per Night)
Pros
This place was the cheapest I could find, for good reason…
Cons
Oh gosh, where do we start…
First of all, the hotel was dirty, and the staff insisted on keeping my passport for the duration of my stay. In all honesty, the red flags were there right from the beginning.
After a bit of back-and-forth I won the argument and was able to leave a passport copy with these shifty characters rather than the real thing.
Anyway, two nights came and went. I’d seen cockroaches scuttle across the corridors, but nothing in my room. So once more, I ignored every red flag that stood before my eyes…
Night three and I came out the bathroom.
FLASH!
In the blink of an eye, a large black creature ran across my room. But I saw it perfectly before it disappeared under my bed. It was a rat.
Instantly I grabbed everything and chucked all my possessions in the first bag I could find. Then ran downstairs to the Bangladeshi reception staff.
“Rat, rat, there’s a f*ing rat in my room!!!” I shouted with a look of sheer horror on my face.
They looked at me blankly as if they were talking to a madman. Which perhaps they were in that exact moment.
Well to be fair, I was mad for staying here despite every warning sign possible showing me this was one to avoid.
After a lot of protests, they moved me to another room.
Next door…
They insisted they don’t have rats here… guess I really was going mad, right?
Anyway, I finally had a good wash, something I’d had to abort after coming across my new roommate next door. Couldn’t exactly enjoy a nice soak here though.
Then the problems continued. I (to my knowledge) had no rats in this room. Yet the cockroaches gave me some company instead. I crushed a few of them with the chair in the room, but was completely drained at this point. The following day would involve flying to my next country, which had been narrowed down to about 20 options at this point ranging from Kenya to Lebanon, and many European countries.
Ultimately, Lithuania got the nod, a great decision in the end!
I was up until well after 4am sorting flights out, in-between cockroach-proofing my room to the best of my abilities.
After sleeping with the lights on and the air con on full blast, it was time to escape from this godforsaken place. Relief at last.
Overall
Normally this section would weigh up the pros vs the cons of each hotel or hostel, rate them and explain why I would or wouldn’t recommend staying there. In this case, all I have to share is a lesson.
Do your research!
No matter how often you travel, you should always do the basics. Booking hotels online is great as you can always read dozens of reviews before deciding on a place to stay. If you do things the risky way, by knocking on doors and asking for the best price as I did, do not ignore red flags. If something seems dodgy, go elsewhere, even if it costs a little more. Some issues such as rats, cockroaches or bedbugs are simply not worth saving a few bucks over.
Final Thoughts: Is Bahrain Worth Visiting?
Bahrain is worth visiting if you travel more for the culture and the environment rather than specific things to do. However, Bahrain is not really worth visiting if you’re coming for tourist attractions alone. Bahrain Fort is cool, but is it really worth travelling all the way to this country for? Not really.
If truth be told, there are more interesting countries in the region than Bahrain. The UAE and Saudi Arabia instantly come to mind, as does Jordan which is not far away. Qatar is a hard one to judge as I was there for the 2022 World Cup and don’t feel as if I’ve seen the real Qatar.
That does not mean Bahrain is boring however. I actually quite liked this fun little country, and would happily go back. Although it would not be at the top of my bucket list.
The traveller vs tourist debate attracts a lot of strong opinions on both sides. But really, only one of the two groups will enjoy Bahrain. Bahrain is a place you will only truly enjoy if you are a traveller, not a tourist.
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