Is Bulgaria Worth Visiting? Why Travel is Subjective
Introduction
After starting a 3-month Euro-trip in Greece, I headed up to North Macedonia. After this I had several options for the next destination, and eventually chose Bulgaria. Is Bulgaria worth visiting? What is there to see in Bulgaria? What is Bulgaria famous for? I wanted to find out the answer to these questions and more.
Therefore I took a minivan from Skopje, across the snowy border to find out what this country had to offer.
There were only three of us in the van. I didn’t expect the Skopje to Sofia route to be so uncommon. However we were stopped on the border and had our bags searched, mostly thanks to a local who should’ve known better.
He had a green herb-like substance in a clear, unmarked plastic bag. Needless to say, immigration didn’t like the look of this. We were forced to get out in the freezing snow on the border, every breath visible at the chilling checkpoint as we stood still waiting for the guards to give us the all-clear.
After an eternity shivering whilst this man’s bag was thoroughly inspected, we were finally able to get back in the van, much to the relief of the elderly lady who stood unamused and frozen solid whilst the bag was searched.
Finally we were on our way, and I eventually made it to country 49: Bulgaria.
Below I shall get stuck into some history as well as key logistics and places worth visiting in Bulgaria. These will focus on the two cities I went to: Sofia and Plovdiv.
Background on Bulgaria
Bulgaria is a country that was sandwiched between many great empires of the past.
It was once part of the Roman Empire. Then the Byzantines and the Ottomans came, among several others.
Bulgaria’s Communist Era
In more recent times, Bulgaria fell under the dark cloud of communism as the Iron Curtain descended across Europe in the wake of WWII.
In the first few years after the war ended in 1945, Bulgaria had close ties with Stalin. So much so, it was considered by some to be the 16th Soviet Republic rather than a country in its own right.
Bulgarian policies matched those of the USSR. Although this began to change following Stalin’s death in 1953.
Unlike nearby countries including SFR Yugoslavia, the Soviet Union and Romania, Bulgaria didn’t experience the very worst of communism.
In 1975 they signed the Helsinki Accords. This pact was signed by every European country other than Andorra and Enver Hoxha’s Albania.
The Helsinki Accords sought to guarantee various freedoms including freedom of speech and freedom of movement. Respecting the territorial integrity of countries and resolving conflicts peacefully were other key points within the accords.
In 1990, Bulgaria had a relatively peaceful transition to democracy. Unlike in next door Romania, there was no violent overthrow of the government. The first fair elections were held, and communist Bulgaria was no more.
Post-Communist Bulgaria
The People’s Republic of Bulgaria dropped the “People’s” from its name. And Bulgaria moved into the post-communist era.
Bulgaria became a westernised country in the 2000s, firstly joining NATO in 2004, and then the EU in 2007. With Romania and much of the Balkans following the same path, only Belarus and the tiny breakaway “nation” of Transnistria remain firmly alongside Russia to make up Europe’s political East.
The country traditionally has held close ties with neighbouring North Macedonia since communism collapsed. Bulgaria was the first country to recognise North Macedonia’s independence.
However, they don’t agree on everything. The two countries speak very similar languages. Bulgaria claims the Macedonian language is simply a Bulgarian dialect rather than a language in its own right. They also refuse to recognise Macedonians as a separate ethnic group, claiming they are a subgroup of Bulgarians.
The two countries signed a friendship treaty in 2017. Although Bulgaria refuses to support North Macedonia’s quest for EU accession without the latter acknowledging historical Bulgarian roots.
Bulgaria generally gets on well with Turkey, despite strained relations during the communist era. At one point, Bulgaria forced Bulgarian Muslims across the border leading to an exodus of around 300,000 known as the Big Excursion.
The collapse of communism saw Bulgaria soften its stance towards Bulgarian Muslims, and around two thirds ended up returning. The two countries and NATO members have more positive relations today.
Is Bulgaria Safe to Visit?
Bulgaria is very safe to visit. Unlike in Western Europe, you are very unlikely to come across any sort of crime out here.
The one illegal activity which you may have to watch out for is pickpocketing. Whilst not common, it isn’t unheard of either, and tourists can be a target in the big cities such as Sofia.
Violent crime is not likely to happen in Bulgaria.
One danger you have to be wary of is stray dogs. Strays are known to carry rabies in Bulgaria. Rabies is a horrifically painful disease with a near-100% certainty of death once symptoms appear. Vaccines can only help before symptoms develop. But taking a series of vaccines after a bite can be a lengthy, painful and expensive process. Do not approach a stray dog under any circumstances.
Natural disaster risk is low in Bulgaria. There has not been a major earthquake for around 100 years. Severe flooding can occur, but the risk is still very low.
When is the Best Time to Visit Bulgaria?
The best time to visit Bulgaria is between May and September. This is when you get the best weather, and the popular Black Sea beach resorts are all open. April and October are also good months to visit, with reasonable weather and lower crowds.
Travelling outside of this window is unadvisable unless you are visiting specifically for winter activities. The Bulgaria ski season runs from December to March.
Bulgaria is worth visiting during those months if you wish to ski. Otherwise avoid November to March. These months are cold and miserable. Sightseeing in the cities is not a fun experience in these times. I speak from experience. Quite frankly, a week in Bulgaria during freezing February was not an ideal time to visit the cities.
How to Visit Bulgaria
Despite not yet being a part of the Schengen Area, Bulgaria applies the same visa requirements as Schengen. Citizens from most European countries do not need a visa. The exceptions are Russia and Belarus.
Citizens of most countries in the mainland Americas can also enter Bulgaria visa-free. The exceptions here are Belize, Guyana, Suriname, Bolivia and Ecuador.
Most citizens of countries outside these two regions require a visa. Notable exceptions include Malaysia, Japan, South Korea, Australia, New Zealand and the UAE.
How to get to Bulgaria
There are 8 international airports offering flights to Bulgaria, with Sofia being the busiest. Like most major Balkan airports, most flights are between Sofia and other European countries. The exceptions are Egypt and a handful of popular Middle Eastern destinations including Israel, Jordan the UAE and Qatar.
Buses operate regularly from all nearby countries. There are also irregular trains running from Greece, Turkey and Romania.
How to get Around Bulgaria
Buses are the fastest way to get around. They connect all major cities, as well as many remote locations.
Trains are the cheapest mode of internal transport. They maintain an element of Soviet charm to them. In fact the carriages appear like a vintage version of those on the Hogwarts Express from Harry Potter. If you take the trains during winter, they have heating. Great. Until you realise they crank it up to the max and turn the carriages into furnaces. Suddenly you’ll be left to appreciate the Bulgarian winter chills after all…
Is Bulgaria Cheap to Visit?
Bulgaria is one of the cheapest countries in Europe. I spent £20 ($25) per day here by staying in hostels, eating street food, and taking local transport rather than expensive private vehicles. By that I mean walking within cities, and using the trains and buses to travel to/from each destination.
It’s possible to find accommodation as low as £5 ($6) per night in Bulgaria. You can stay in a wooden shack in the countryside for this price. Hostels begin from £7 ($9) in the major cities (Plovdiv, Sofia etc). It’s only around £2 ($3) more for a private room in many places, although the quality would be very poor. Expect to pay double the price of a dorm bed for a reasonable private room.
Street food is common and very cheap. Turkey’s influence has crossed the border and kebab spots are widespread here. Expect to pay around £3 ($4) for a hearty kebab that will fill you up.
Transport is also mega cheap in Bulgaria. The train from Sofia to Plovdiv for example costs a cool £4 ($5). The journey takes around 3-3.5 hours.
As for activities, they are also, you’ve guessed it, very cheap in Bulgaria. It cost under £5 ($6) to attend a top-flight football match in Plovdiv. Free walking tours are also very affordable. Yes, they are “free”, so technically you can pay nothing. But in reality the tour guides make all their money from tips. Therefore tips of £5-10 ($6-12) are expected.
Where is Worth Visiting in Bulgaria?
One place Bulgaria has become known for in recent years is Sunny Beach, a popular Black Sea beach resort with a heavy party scene.
However, I generally focus more on unique places and locations with a cultural interest. I will also only go into detail about places I have been, which in this case means Sofia and Plovdiv.
Without further ado, let’s get stuck into what these two cities have to offer.
Sofia
One place considered worth visiting in Bulgaria is the capital, Sofia. Travel is very subjective and experiences differ from person to person. A beginner traveller may love Sofia, it has a lot that you won’t see in the UK or USA. A more experienced traveller, particularly one who has seen a lot of Eastern Europe and the Balkans, may not find so much of interest here.
Sofia has a few interesting sites, but the appeal is limited if you’ve already seen impressive Orthodox Churches or fancy theatres elsewhere. Here are some of the most iconic stops:
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
One of the biggest Orthodox churches in Eastern Europe. It was built using Russian money, on the condition that Bulgaria named it after Russian hero Alexander Nevsky. Nevsky attained sainthood in the motherland, and was revered for his roles fighting off invasions from the Swedes and Germans, whilst engaging in diplomacy to fend off the threat of the brutal Mongols.
Until the 2010 completion of the Church of Saint Sava in Belgrade, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was the largest Orthodox church in the Balkans.
The Statue of Sofia
The city of Sofia was named after Saint Sofia of Rome, an Italian who had little or no links to Bulgaria. Only limited information exists on how the city was named, and this information came from a local tour guide who I used whilst in Sofia for a few days.
Despite having few links to the country (if any), Sofia was celebrated in Bulgaria, had the capital named after her, and a statue built in her honour. The statue was built to replace one of Lenin which had stood in the capital since communist times.
The President’s Office
The President’s Office is famous for… well, have a guess.
You cannot go inside, however you can witness the changing of the guard every hour, usually around 5 minutes before the hour. The stern-looking guards spend the next 55 minutes standing dead still, moving only if someone attempts to access the building.
Ivan Vazov National Theatre
One of the main places worth visiting in the capital of Bulgaria is this stunning building. It is named after famous Bulgarian poet, Ivan Vazov and hosts a variety of plays. They are all in Bulgarian, therefore you are unlikely to understand what is going on. If this is your sort of thing however, the plays are said to be worth watching (I didn’t see them myself and therefore can’t speak from experience on this one).
Roman Ruins
Sofia was once an integral part of the Roman Empire. As a result, many ruins have been uncovered within the city. Several are accessible to tourists today.
Plovdiv
Personally I preferred Plovdiv to Sofia. It’s a city that combines beautiful housing with Roman history and a few cool viewing spots. Plovdiv is the number one city worth visiting in Bulgaria. Why? Well let’s explain what’s there.
Roman Ruins
The ruins in Plovdiv are more exciting than those in Sofia, in my personal opinion. For starters you have the amphitheatre, one of the best-preserved in Europe. Even today, the amphitheatre is still used for productions. It can hold up to 3,000 people inside.
You also have the remains of the Stadium of Philippopolis. This was the old name of Plovdiv, when the city was named after Philip II of Macedon. If you haven’t heard of Philip II, then you probably known his son. Alexander the Great was one of the most iconic figures in Southeastern Europe.
This stadium was originally used for a series of athletic events. It was built almost 2,000 years ago and lost over time as Plovdiv was built over what remained of Philippopolis. However it was rediscovered in 1923, and remains visible from the streets above today. You can even stop in a cafe overlooking the old stadium.
The Colourful Houses of Plovdiv
Once upon a time, the rich decide to compete with each other. The goal was to build the fanciest house. One man would create a beautiful building, and the next would try to top it. This would continue with each competitor attempting to own the best house. The result? Plovdiv’s old town has some of the most beautiful houses you will ever see. Most of them have been repurposed as museums today.
Walk down the narrow streets, and you’ll come across more houses like this.
Hiking up to the Monument of the Red Army: Alyosha
Near Plovdiv’s city centre, you have Bunarjik Hill. Hike up here for around 30 minutes and you will find this giant statue towering over the city. It depicts a Soviet soldier, representing war losses of the USSR during WWII. Even if the history doesn’t interest you, the sunsets may. It’s a great spot to look over the city of Plovdiv.
Watch Some Local Football: Botev Plovdiv
One of my goals is to watch a top-level football match in every country. In Bulgaria, this meant a long walk to the Botev 1912 Football Complex. For 10 Bulgarian lev (£5/$6) I was able to get a ticket to watch hosts Botev Plovdiv play Lokomotiv Sofia in the freezing cold.
At half time, the score was 0-0. However, just seconds after the whistle went, the floodlights went down plunging the ground into pitch black. After half an hour shivering in the darkness with no sign the game would resume, I made the decision to head back. It turned out to be the right decision. The game resumed after an hour, and ended up finishing 0-0.
Hopefully my fellow football enthusiasts reading this will be able to enjoy a match without such bad luck. Before the floodlight failure, it was an okay game with an okay atmosphere. I’ve seen far better however.
Where to Stay in Bulgaria
These hostels below are where I stayed in Bulgaria, with honest reviews and opinions on whether or not you should consider staying in them during your own trip.
Sofia – Smart Hostel Sofia (£9/$11 Per Night)
Pros
Honestly… not much. It was cheapish I guess. And the man who checked me in was friendly.
Cons
This hostel was split into two buildings. Unfortunately I ended up staying in the second building, a couple of minutes away. It didn’t feel like a hostel, much more like a homeless shelter. The building was undergoing renovation and the guests weren’t regular backpackers. The lock was broken meaning anyone could walk into the ice-cold building. The bathrooms were below-par. One was closed for renovation, another tiny. The third bathroom was at least an okay size. Although there was only one toilet in the entire building.
Overall
One to avoid. I’ll give it a 2/10. But this place was really disappointing.
Plovdiv – Hostel Old Plovdiv (£13/$16 Per Night)
Pros
Now this hostel is one place worth visiting in Bulgaria. The polar opposite to the Smart Hostel. This iconic hostel in the old town is famous for its hospitality. It was named as one of Lonely Planet’s “Top 10 Best Value Stays” in 2014. Upon arrival I was greeted by a sign with my name on and a huge welcome message. Free lemonade was available at all times.
It feels more like a vintage mansion than a backpackers hostel. The old-school wooden furniture in this historical building have a lot more charm than you would normally find in a hostel.
There’s a breakfast option here, the staff are friendly and everything works well.
Cons
Can’t really think of any to be honest.
Overall
A great place. The hostel is so iconic, it is almost an attraction in itself. I would certainly say it’s worth visiting during your Bulgaria trip. Hard to fault this one, a solid 9/10.
Why not a 10? I’ve stayed in better places before. But there is little lacking here, it just happens to be that those places were better. Sometimes these things can come down to something as small as the people you meet.
Final Thoughts: Is Bulgaria Worth Visiting?
Travel is subjective. Each individual has their own experiences on the road, which will be completely different from anyone elses.
The time you visit, the weather, the people you meet, any issues with crime or medical problems. There are many factors which impact on your experience.
The first two mentioned above were key for me. Bulgaria was bleak and cold in early February. I didn’t love Sofia, really disliked the Smart Hostel, and aside from the pretty houses, there wasn’t much I hadn’t seen elsewhere.
As a result, I didn’t like Bulgaria.
But is Bulgaria worth visiting? Absolutely. Regardless of my own beliefs, there are a lot of things to do if you plan on a short weekend, or a weeklong break in Bulgaria.
Perhaps you will see it differently and come away thinking this is one of your favourite countries in the world.
You can see some tips, history and stories from everywhere else I’ve visited on my blog contents page.
