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One Country Too Many: Is Helsinki Worth Visiting?

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Banner photo Finland

Introduction

Is Helsinki worth visiting? I spent a few days in the Finnish capital in 2022, to end a 10-month trip across 26 different countries.

This blog post should have been all about Finland in its entirety. However, I stretched myself a little too far.

With three days left before needing to go home, I could have extended my stay in the beautiful Baltics. But having seen all I wanted to see in wonderful Lithuania, Latvia, and my final stop, Estonia, it was time to consider elsewhere.

Logistically there was only one sensible option. To catch the ferry from Tallinn, across the Gulf of Finland, and towards the capital of the Nordic country.

And so, this is what I did.

In all honesty, I personally didn’t love the Finnish capital. That does not mean Helsinki is not worth visiting, it just means I didn’t like it. And the tight timeframe meant I was unable to explore any more of Finland, including the north which is perhaps where the main attractions are.

Maybe you will like Helsinki however. After all, travel is subjective, and a place one person hates could be someone else’s favourite spot in the world.

Below I will give some background information and some tips for visiting Finland. Plus the places worth checking out if you do visit Helsinki.

The ferry port in Helsinki
Most people arriving in Helsinki from Estonia will take the ferry

Background on Finland

Finland is a Nordic country alongside Iceland, Denmark, Sweden and Norway. These five countries share a lot of cultural ties as well as being located relatively close to each other.

They all have a reputation for putting a heavy emphasis on education and providing a high standard of living. Although they are all cold countries, have high taxes and are very expensive to visit.

The Happiest Country in the World?

Finland often tops rankings for “the happiest country in the world” due to these reasons. But this is a bit misleading really. These rankings are based on stats. Finland scores highly because it has a high quality health system, education system, low corruption etc. But really Finland isn’t a place where people love their lives.

The high cost of living cancels out many of the benefits from the high wages earnt, and the people weren’t full of warmth and happiness when I visited. In fact Finns are generally quite pessimistic people. This is something my Finnish tour guide also claimed whilst showing us around Helsinki.

Finns are content with their lives, but they aren’t big dreamers. There is no “American dream”-style philosophy in Finland. Finns will go to work, earn a reasonable wage, go home and look after their families.

Does Low Crime Mean High Happiness?

Another reason why they are deemed to be so happy, is because Finland is incredibly safe. It is one of the few European countries where crime is comparable to the likes of Japan and South Korea. A country that passes the wallet test. Lose your wallet here, and chances are it will be returned to you without a few notes disappearing.

Whilst a country with low crime rates is obviously a positive, I’ve been to countries with widespread theft and violence, where the locals have been full of warmth and positivity. Take Colombia for example, or El Salvador, a country which until the last couple of years was one of the world’s most dangerous.

As with much of the Latin world, both countries place great importance on family values. Both countries are also heavily Christian, and religion plays a key role in society. Finns by contrast become less religious with each year that passes, and generally prioritise work above all else.

It seems happiness is complex to calculate. But an emphasis on faith and family, combined with the extroverted personalities common in the Latin world, seem to go a long way towards enjoying life. This is regardless of crime, poverty and other negative factors.

A Brief Overview of Finland’s History

Finland was once a part of the Russian Empire. It gained independence from Russia in 1917, only for the Soviets to attempt to retake the country 22 years later during the Winter War. Stalin’s efforts to retake Finland failed, although the country did lose 9% of its territory to the Soviet Union. This was agreed in a peace treaty signed in Moscow just four months after the war began.

Finland aligned with Nazi Germany during WWII, not because they had much in common with the Nazis however. Finland adopted a “the enemy of my enemy is my friend” mentality, and sided with Germany when they invaded the Soviet Union. Their main reasoning for this was the belief that it could lead to them reclaiming the territory lost during the Winter War. Despite their partnership with the Nazis, Finland was a relatively safe country for Jews during the war, with only 8 handed over to the Germans.

Finland did manage to reclaim much of its lost territory in 1941, only for the Soviet Union to retake it again in 1944.

In the years following the war, Finland declared itself to be neutral, acting as a barrier between the Eastern Bloc and the west during the Cold War.

Avoiding costly conflicts and developing a market economy helped Finland grow economically as the decades passed.

Although the country’s neutrality did seem to faulter as it joined the EU in 1995, and adopted the euro as its currency four years later.

Finland’s “neutral” status was shattered without doubt following the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine. Finland had previously been against the idea of joining NATO, a clear sign of support for the west over the east.

However, after the invasion, NATO support skyrocketed, and within months Finland’s parliament had voted 188-8 in favour of joining NATO.

A year later, they officially became a member of the military alliance.

Helsinki pictured in 2022
Finland’s capital Helsinki in 2022

Is Finland Safe to Visit?

Finland is one of the safest countries in the world. As mentioned previously, crime is rock bottom in the country. Of course, crime exists everywhere. Although you would have to be incredibly unlucky to fall victim in Finland with such low rates.

The main dangers in Finland come from the environment. This is a vast country, with nature being a far bigger attraction than the cities. Your number one enemy in Finland is the cold. The further north you go, the more likely you are to experience extreme temperatures, with record lows of below -50 degrees in Lapland. Whilst that is at the extreme end of the scale, temperatures of -20 and lower are much more common. Be sure to wrap up warm.

Finland is not a country that suffers from natural disasters. You do not have to worry about earthquakes or volcanic eruptions here.

Icy roads in Helsinki
Finland has low crime, but the cold weather can be a challenge

When is the Best Time to Visit Finland?

The best time to visit Finland is in the winter. The exact month depends on what you’re looking for.

Whilst the Northern Lights are visible all year long, the best months to see them are generally from September-March. During these months it is often dark, usually dry and very cold. These are the conditions that make the lights more likely to make an appearance. Of course, there is no guarantee you will see the lights at all. However these conditions will maximise your chances. The lights are more visible in the country’s north. Hence the name!

For skiing, the best time to visit Finland is in March or April. Perhaps early March or late April would be the optimum time to go, as you will be avoiding the worst of the crowds.

The summer months of June-September are the best time to visit Finland if you aren’t interested in winter activities, including seeing the Northern Lights. The summer is the best time to explore Finland’s national parks, and enjoy some warmer weather. However, summer in Finland is still cool compared to most other European countries. Average temperatures are around 18 degrees in July in Helsinki, which is one of the country’s warmest spots. July is generally the country’s hottest month.

Finland is known for cold weather
Finland is a cold country

How to Visit Finland

Finland is a member of the Schengen Area. Schengen countries generally follow the same visa rules. You should always check whether or not you need a visa before travelling. However here are some general rules:

Citizens of most countries in Europe and the mainland Americas do not need a visa to visit Finland. The exceptions are Russia, Belarus, Kosovo, Belize, Bolivia, Ecuador, Guyana and Suriname.

Citizens of most other countries do need a visa to visit Finland. Notable exceptions are Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand and the UAE. There are also a series of small (mostly) island countries whose citizens don’t require visas to visit Finland.

How to get to Finland

There are 27 airports in Finland, although most international traffic comes through Helsinki Airport (HEL) in the capital. You can take direct flights between Helsinki, most European countries, the USA and a handful of destinations in East/Far East Asia. Qatar, the UAE and India (New Delhi) are also connected with Helsinki Airport.

Buses run to Finland from Sweden and Norway. Buses and trains from Russia to Finland are currently not an option. As of December 2023, Russia has been accused of sending asylum seekers into Finland as revenge for the Nordic country joining NATO. As a result, borders have been closed with potential reopening dates constantly changing.

Trains do not run from Sweden and Norway due to different rail gauges in each country. Although if you cross at the Haparanda/Tornio border, there are train stations in both countries which are walkable between. Therefore it is still (technically) possible to travel between Sweden and Finland by train.

There are ferries operating from both Sweden and Estonia to Finland. Germany also has some ferry options, although these are generally for lorry drivers. Whilst there are options for tourists to take the ferry from Germany, it is generally less common.

How to get Around Finland

Finland has a rail network which connects most of the country. Tickets for trains in Finland can be found on Finlandtrains. Direct tickets from capital Helsinki to Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, cost upwards of £89 ($113). Although I did find an indirect route for just £55 ($70).

Planes operate between most major cities. Although they are the most expensive option.

Buses are the best option for the range of connections available. They cover almost everywhere, including the far northern regions which the rail network doesn’t quite reach.

A Helsinki street performer
A street performer in Helsinki

Is Finland Cheap to Visit?

No, Finland is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. Only the British Isles, the Alpine countries and fellow Nordic nations compete with Finland as the continent’s costliest countries.

During my three days in Finland, I attempted to keep costs to a minimum. This meant staying in a 26-bed dorm room for £19/$24 per night, averaging around £15 ($19) per day on budget meals, and no travel expenses (staying within Helsinki and only walking). I also only spent money on one activity: a tips-based walking tour of Helsinki.

The hostel I stayed in was one of the cheapest available. If you want a private room in Helsinki you’re looking at upwards of £30 ($38). With the highest supply of accommodation, Helsinki has the cheapest places to stay. Elsewhere in Finland is likely to cost you a fair bit more.

Finland is expensive to visit
Finland is an expensive country to visit

Where is Worth Visiting in Helsinki?

Places I Personally Visited in Helsinki

To be brutally honest, there isn’t a lot worth visiting in Helsinki. But “not a lot” isn’t the same as “nothing”, so let’s have a look at what is worth seeing.

Your best option is to take a free walking tour (these are tips-based in reality). Here, a local guide will show you the best places to see in Helsinki. This is valuable advice for visiting any city on your travels.

Helsinki Cathedral is one of the highlights in Finland’s capital. The Finnish Evangelical Lutheran cathedral was named after Tsar Nicholas I of Russia who was Finland’s leader at the time of building almost 200 years ago. However, his name was dropped following Finland’s independence from Russia.

Helsinki Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral

If you want an authentic cultural experience, go to one of many saunas within Helsinki. Saunas are a big part of Finnish culture. Finns use them often to cleanse their bodies, and warm up in a country not known for warm weather. In fact there are an estimated 3 million saunas in Finland. With a population of 5.5 million, that’s the equivalent of less than 2 people per sauna! A sauna trip in the country is generally followed by jumping into a freezing ice lake.

An ice lake in Helsinki
Finns generally follow up a sauna trip with a dive into freezing water

Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures, but the Christmas markets in Helsinki were certainly worth visiting. Located in front of Helsinki Cathedral, several stalls sell all sorts of Christmas treats, whilst carol singers perform to visitors. My particular favourite stall at the market was the fudge stall, which offered a generous selection of free samples! Obviously, these are only running around Christmas time.

Places in Helsinki Said to be Worth Visiting Which I did not Visit

Now one place said to be worth visiting in Helsinki is Suomenlinna Fortress. It is located on a small island of the coast of Helsinki, and is free to enter. I must admit however that I did not check it out. After walking for 40 minutes in the freezing cold, my motivation was low to visit this UNESCO World Heritage site. I decided it was of little interest to me personally and I didn’t want to see a popular site just because other people rate it highly.

The more you travel, the more you seek out your own preferred spots, rather than those ranked highly elsewhere.

Obviously I cannot offer opinions without visiting, but perhaps the official Suomenlinna Fortress website will help you decide whether to put this on your itinerary.

The only major attraction in Helsinki I haven’t mentioned is the many museums there. Again, I didn’t visit any, but if you have an interest in museums then you may like Helsinki. The Post Museum (about the postal service), National Museum (Finnish history), Photography Museum (you guessed it… photography), Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art (another self-explanatory one) and Bank of Finland Museum (about the history of money in the country) are amongst the most popular. The Helsinki City Museum also offers a lot of insight into the history of the Finnish capital.

Where to Stay in Finland

I always talk only about places I’ve actually stayed in. When it comes to Finland, that is only one place: a hostel on the outskirts of the capital called CheapSleep Helsinki. Here I will share my views and whether or not you should consider staying here.

Helsinki – CheapSleep Helsinki (£19/$24 Per Night)

Pros

“CheapSleep” is a bit of a stretch, but I guess by Finland’s standards it is relatively low-cost.

It was warm in here and provided a nice respite from the cold. They also host a few events every week including games night and parties among other things.

Despite the rooms hosting upwards of 18 people, there are walls splitting the rooms into 3-4 sections. This makes it feel more like a 4 to 6-bed dorm. Although the noise from other guests can quickly shatter this illusion.

Cons

It’s located a 45-minute walk from the city centre. Which means you’ll either have to walk, or take public transport. Choose the latter and it won’t be such a CheapSleep after all.

The rooms are massive: generally 18 to 26-bed dorms. There are ten-bed options, but it won’t be such a budget-friendly option if you pay more to stay in these.

Despite many common areas, it’s a hostel that lacks character and atmosphere. Even during the 2022 World Cup Final which was screened here during my stay, the atmosphere was somewhat muted.

Overall

It’s okay, but nothing special. If you want to save a bit of money, come here and stay in a 26-bed dorm. But don’t expect a great experience.

It was clean enough, and had basic facilities. Would give it a 6/10 overall. Would I come back here? Maybe, but I’m not desperate to do so.

Final Thoughts: Is Helsinki Worth Visiting?

In my personal opinion, Helsinki is not worth visiting. Finland is a country to visit for the Northern Lights, husky sledding, and other winter activities in the country’s north.

You may however like Helsinki if you’re into museums. Otherwise, the only real unique experience which differentiates Helsinki from any generic European city is the sauna culture.

In all honesty, Finland was one country too many during my 26-country tour in 2022. Three days is not enough time to see the spots which this nation is famous for. And Helsinki is not really a place worth spending three days. Unless, as mentioned, you like museums. Otherwise, one day is enough to do a free walking tour, check out Helsinki Cathedral and visit Suomenlinna Fortress.

This trip taught me a lesson. Quality travel over quantity travel. I still have a goal to visit every country, hence the name of this blog. However, in the future, I will quite happily knock a country or two off my itinerary if I don’t have time left to do it justice. Most countries won’t be disappearing any time soon.

If you want to read about all other countries I have visited so far, please check out my blog contents page.

Helsinki is not worth visiting in my opinion
In my opinion, Helsinki is not worth visiting

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