Visit Kosovo: Does This Disputed Territory Count As A Country?

Introduction

Coming down from Serbia, I decided to visit Kosovo as my next country.

This blog post is already controversial, a single line in. What could possibly be controversial about such an innocuous comment?

Read on, to find out more!

I will address the Serbia/Kosovo disagreements as well as what you can do in Kosovo. Not to mention answering some key questions if you’re planning a trip here. Is Kosovo safe to visit? Is Kosovo cheap? What are the best places to visit in Kosovo? The answers to these questions and more will be in the paragraphs below.

Background on Kosovo

Kosovo and the Breakup of SFR Yugoslavia

Kosovo spent much of the 20th century as part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (SFR Yugoslavia). There were seven countries existing today which made up SFR Yugoslavia: Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, Kosovo and North Macedonia.

Yugoslavia broke up in the early 1990s amidst the fall of communism, and this is where today’s problems started. Slovenia and North Macedonia gained independence peacefully. The other countries however fought a series of wars along ethnic lines which resulted in thousands of deaths, and NATO attacks on Serbian military positions in Kosovo.

Bosnia Herzegovina and Croatia gained their independence, which left Serbia, Montenegro and Kosovo to make up the rump state, the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (FR Yugoslavia).

Whilst Montenegro peacefully gained independence from Serbia via referendum in 2006, Kosovo didn’t have such a smooth transition.

The Kosovo War

Whilst Serbia and Montenegro were ethnically Serbian territories, this was not the case for Kosovo. The majority of Kosovans are Albanian. Therefore they identify much more with Albania than Serbia. In fact, Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha fell out with Tito’s SFR Yugoslavia due to their disagreement on Kosovo becoming part of a Greater Albania.

In 1998 tensions came to a head as an Albanian separatist militia called the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA) emerged. The KLA wished to fulfil Hoxha’s dream of building a Greater Albania, where all Albanian-majority territories unify under one banner.

The KLA sought to free Kosovo from what they perceived to be Serbian oppression. They were viewed as freedom fighters in Albania. The Serbs on the other hand saw the KLA as terrorists. In 1998, this was a view shared by the US.

The KLA started attacking Serbs in Kosovo. They were willing to use violence to rid the territory of Serbs. Serbia meanwhile went in to rid Kosovo of the KLA, and nullify the threat towards Serbian borders and people.

The situation escalated. The KLA committed a series of terror attacks against Serbs. Whilst the Serbs were also responsible for a number of atrocities. Most notably, killing 21 civilians as revenge for deadly KLA attacks. The Gornje Obrinje massacre was the name given to this particular attack. It marked a major escalation in the conflict.

A month after the September 1998 massacre, NATO came into the war, launching a series of aerial attacks on Serbian positions. And by January, another massacre took place in Racak, with Serbian forces killing 45 Albanians. This was the turning point which led to NATO bombing Serbia within their own territory from March-June in 1999.

The End of the Kosovo War

NATO’s attacks and the lack of desire from Serbia’s key ally Russia to support them, led to Serb leader Slobodan Milosevic reluctantly accepting a peace treaty. Otherwise Serbia were outgunned and outnumbered with little support from elsewhere.

In June 1999, 30,000 peacekeeping forces entered Kosovo from several different countries both in and outside of NATO. This marked the end of the Kosovo War.

US President Bill Clinton became idolised for his role in the war. This is because Clinton was the main proponent of NATO intervention in Kosovo. The tiny Balkan nation has since become staunchly pro-western. The population appreciated the US, Clinton and NATO for ending the conflict in their country. In fact, a 10-foot statue of Clinton was erected in Kosovan capital Pristina in a spot now named Bill Clinton Boulevard.

Kosovo in the 21st Century

A series of minor attacks have taken place in the post-war years. But Kosovo is a relatively peaceful territory today. NATO-led peacekeeping force, the Kosovo Force (KFOR) have guarded the territory ever since the war. KFOR was made up of over 50,000 individuals from 39 countries. Today that number is down to 5,000.

The goal of KFOR is to prevent conflict breaking out in Kosovo until the Kosovo Security Force (Kosovan military) becomes self-sufficient. KFOR has reduced numbers in order to transition towards Kosovo taking complete control of security. At this stage, KFOR will pull out of the country.

Is Kosovo a Real Country?

How Many Countries are There in the World?

Let’s address the big issue surrounding Kosovo today.

One question that gets asked often in the travel space, is “how many countries are there in the world?”

An easy question to answer, right?

Wrong.

There are 193 UN member states. Therefore 193 is a common answer to this question. However there are also two non-member states which are recognised as observer states: Vatican City and Palestine. This gives you 195 countries.

Then there are Kosovo and Taiwan. Two territories that are often counted as “countries”. They both have their own governments and run very differently from the countries they claim independence from (Serbia and China respectively). These two complete the 193+4 which gives you 197 countries in the world. The widely accepted number of countries is 193-197.

The Complexities of Country Recognition

But this is where things become complicated. These two territories have their own governments, currencies, borders etc. and are often viewed in the travel world as independent countries. Yet what about Somaliland, or Western Sahara for example, which are in a similar position, but are not widely counted as being separate from respective “parent” nations Somalia and Morocco? In fact, Somaliland was once independent and recognised by over 30 countries. Although it later merged with Somalia, claimed independence again in 1991, and this time remained unrecognised.

Although in fairness Taiwan was once recognised by over 100 countries. Not only that, but the Taiwanese government were actually considered the legitimate government of China. However, support waned over the past few decades leaving Taiwan recognised by just 13 states. Kosovo on the other hand is in a stronger position with over 100 countries recognising it as independent.

Many travellers take the easy option when counting countries. They will go to Somaliland and say they’ve visited Somalia. They will go to Iraqi Kurdistan and count it as a visit to Iraq. Stepping across the border of Korea’s Demilitarised Zone for a few seconds and a quick photo is sometimes counted as a trip to North Korea. Even Guinness World Records accepts this…

Therefore this is a tricky question to answer. There are 193, 195 or 197 countries. All of those answers are correct. Yet other answers are also correct, as long as they can be justified in some way.

You cannot claim there are only three countries in the world. Because France, Brazil, Canada and Australia are undoubtably countries. As are many more nations across the world.

The main criteria for your accepted number of countries, is a reasonable justification for it.

What Makes a Country a Country?

One thing most countries agree on, is that most territories belonging to a UN member state, with little or no intention of gaining independence, do not count as countries. Greenland (Denmark), Falkland Islands (UK), Gibraltar (UK) and Guam (USA) are examples of these. Although some country counters would disagree.

Then you have tiny breakaway regions such as Abkhazia, Transnistria and South Ossetia. These territories are carved out of existing countries in times of war, claim independence, and barely make an impact on the international community. Transnistria for example is recognised only by the two aforementioned breakaway territories – both parts of Georgia viewed as independent by only five countries. Namely Russia, Venezuela, Syria, Nicaragua and Nauru.

These are not widely viewed as countries. Although some country counters will claim otherwise. Others will use the number of participants in the Olympic Games (206) or FIFA members (211) as the total number of states to officially exist.

Therefore, what makes a country a country? Well UN membership or close relations with the UN are the widely accepted metric. But in all honesty there is no definitive answer to this question.

The bare minimum requirement would be an autonomous government, and its own flag and borders.

Is it Safe to Visit Kosovo?

Yes.

Tensions flared in September 2023 when a group of Serb gunmen shut themselves inside an Orthodox monastery in the village of Banjska, in a Serb-majority region of Northern Kosovo. This led to the deaths of a policeman and three of the gunmen.

There is no reason however to believe wider conflict is imminent. And Kosovo is currently very safe for tourists to visit.

Since this incident, NATO have sent an additional 700 peacekeeping troops to ensure there are no further escalations.

Crime in Kosovo is low, typical for the Balkans, and it’s completely safe to walk around at night time.

Landmines are still an issue in some of the border regions, particularly around Albania. As with other Balkan countries, Kosovo is somewhere where you do not want to go off the beaten track without knowing what you’re doing. Stick to popular cities such as Pristina and Prizren, and you will have no issues. These areas are not affected by landmines.

When is the Best Time to Visit Kosovo?

The weather in Kosovo is typically European. The summers are warm and the winters are cold.

The Pristina weather is coolest in January, hitting an average of around -1 degrees Celsius, whereas it peaks at around 21 degrees in July. The weather in Prizren is marginally warmer, averaging a couple of degrees higher throughout the year.

Unlike neighbouring Albania, Kosovo does not have a coastline. Therefore you won’t miss out on so much by visiting Kosovo outside the peak summer months.

If you are wishing to trek in the mountains however, it is best to visit Kosovo from April-September. I also missed out on a walking tour in Pristina as they apparently only run during the summer. So keep this in mind if that’s the sort of thing that interests you.

Unlike Albania, Montenegro, Greece and Croatia, Kosovo does not receive a lot of tourists, especially not for summer activities. Therefore you won’t see accommodation prices spike in the summer.

How to Visit Kosovo

How to Travel to Kosovo

Pristina Airport is the only airport in Kosovo. And as a lesser-visited nation, Kosovo doesn’t offer connections with many countries.

Only European countries offer flights to Pristina Airport. Unless you count Turkey as Asian. The 14 countries from where you can fly to Pristina are: Turkey, Albania, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, France, Belgium, Germany, UK, Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Latvia. From December 16th 2023, flights to Norway will also be possible.

Flights from London to Pristina, Helsinki to Pristina and Stockholm to Pristina are the longest coming in at 1,180-1,250 miles each. The Oslo to Pristina flights will surpass this with a 1,286 mile distance between the two cities.

Buses to Kosovo exist from Serbia, Montenegro, Albania and North Macedonia. Trains go between Pristina and Skopje in North Macedonia. Whilst a train link from Kraljevo in Serbia to Kosovska Mitrovica in northern Kosovo seemingly no longer exists. Comment below if you find this is not the case.

You can drive in Kosovo, but will need to purchase insurance on the border for 15-20 euros. Albanian insurance also works fine.

Kosovo Travel: How to get Around the Country

Buses are the best way to travel in Kosovo. They generally cost under 5 euros for a ticket, and go between most places of interest. Minivans are also a common form of transport for a similar price. Minivans generally leave when full rather than sticking to a set schedule.

Driving is possible if you have a car, but be careful as there can be a bit of a wild west mentality on Kosovo’s roads.

Can you Travel From Kosovo to Serbia or Vice Versa?

Travel from Serbia to Kosovo is easy. You can easily go from Serbia to Kosovo and back to Serbia without any issues.

Travel from Kosovo to Serbia is where you may have problems, if you have entered Kosovo from any other country. If this is the case, then you will most likely (but not certainly) be denied entry to Serbia.

If you leave Kosovo however, then enter Serbia from another country, you should not have any issues.

Is Kosovo Cheap to Visit?

What is the cheapest country in Europe? Possibly Kosovo. There are few places where you will get your money’s worth more than this tiny Balkan nation.

Despite not being in the EU, Kosovo uses the Euro as its currency.

Accommodation starts from £5 ($6) a night if you want to stay in hostels. The cheapest rooms are in Pristina, but Prizren is also ultra cheap. And given Kosovo’s low numbers of tourists, there’s a fair chance you could get a dorm room all to yourself regardless. Private rooms begin in the £7-12 ($9-15) range.

Transport is dirt cheap. As mentioned previously, 5 euros (£4/$5) will take you pretty much anywhere in the country.

Food is also very cheap. Obviously prices vary depending on what you fancy, but a typical meal at a restaurant may set you back £5-7 ($6-9).

ATM withdrawal charges can be steep at 5 euros per withdrawal. Avoid this by using Credins Bank, available in all the major cities. Credins Bank, also popular in Albania, has no withdrawal fees. ATM fees are the only above-average expense in Kosovo.

With the country lacking any major draws for tourists, activities are also very cheap. The Bear Sanctuary near Pristina for example costs 3.5 euros (£3/$4) to enter. Don’t expect to put a big dent in your budget whilst finding things to do out here.

Kosovo is one of the cheapest countries in Europe for certain. And it’s not unreasonable to put it in “cheapest country in the world” debates. Although, some budget-friendly Asian and Latin American countries just about keep Kosovo from winning that particular title.

What Are the Best Places to Visit in Kosovo?

Honestly, if you visit Kosovo you won’t find loads of things to do. This is one place that appeals to the “traveller not a tourist” type. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do there. I won’t bore you with a “10 best things to do in Kosovo” list, filled mostly with non-attractions such as “drink coffee” or “watch the sunset”. Instead I will share the things that make Kosovo unique.

Pristina

Pristina is the capital of Kosovo, and the easiest city to get to within the country due to its airport and bus links with other destinations.

Going to be honest, it’s not the most exciting city in the world.

I tried to arrange a free walking tour whilst here at the beginning of March. However they were not running due to low interest. Apparently they usually only run during the summer months.

One of Pristina’s most popular spots is Bill Clinton Boulevard, where you can see a statue of the aforementioned ex-US president. As mentioned previously, he is a hero in Kosovo for his support during the war.

Arguably the most famous attraction in Pristina was the Newborn Monument. In all honesty, this sums up how little there is to do here. The monument was just a sign that said “Newborn” celebrating Kosovo’s “independence” from Serbia in 2008. It was similar to the signs you see in almost any half-touristy city across the world which say “I Love Nice” or something along those lines.

I speak about the monument in the past tense because it has since been replaced. The letters have been painted and rearranged to spell out “No New BR” with BR standing for Broken Republic. It simply means the locals do not want to live in a state struggling with the threat of war hanging over it, and few opportunities for the future.

There is also a Mother Teresa statue in the capital. The famous missionary, was born in Skopje to Kosovar Albanian parents. As a result she is celebrated in North Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo.

Bear Sanctuary Prishtina

Perhaps the highlight in Pristina is… getting out of Pristina for a day trip.

A short bus ride will take you to the Bear Sanctuary Prishtina. Pristina is the capital’s name in Latin, Prishtina is the name in Albanian. Therefore both spellings of the city are used. Prishtina is the preferred spelling for the Bear Sanctuary.

The Bear Sanctuary is home to, you guessed it… bears. Oh, and a lion for some reason.

At just 3.5 euros (£3/$4) to enter, it’s a great place to spend an hour or so. You can walk around, seeing various bears which have been rescued from past lives as restaurant bears.

What is a restaurant bear? I hear you ask.

In the not-too-distant past, bears were used for entertainment. They were kept in cages inside restaurants, plied with alcohol, and forced to perform, much to the amusement of diners.

It was only in 2011 that NATO noticed this, and put a halt to it. Austrian NGO Four Paws set up a refuge, which is now the Prishtina Bear Sanctuary.

The bears live in an environment made to replicate the wild. The sanctuary is not a zoo. if you pay to enter, there is no guarantee you will see any bears at all. Although this is unlikely.

Having said that, brown bears generally hibernate between around October and April time. This isn’t an exact timeline however. I had no problems seeing several bears at the beginning of March.

Prishtina Bear Sanctuary is arguably the best place to visit in Kosovo.

Where Else is Worth Visiting in Kosovo?

I cannot comment on places I have not been. This blog is based on authenticity, and suggestions based only on personal experiences. Therefore I won’t go into detail about other places. But Prizren is often cited as the best place to visit in Kosovo, much more so than Pristina. It is best known for retaining a very Ottoman feel, with architecture similar to that found in the likes of Sarajevo and Istanbul. It is also popular for hiking with mountains surrounding it.

Where to Stay in Pristina

Again, I will only make recommendations based on where I’ve actually been. Therefore don’t expect this to be a Google compilation of “best places to stay in Pristina”. Instead I will talk about the two hostels I stayed in during my time in the capital. Be sure to look carefully at the names, as they sound very similar, and it takes around 10 seconds to walk between the two staircases leading up to each respective hostel.

Newborn Center Hostel – £3/$4 Per Night

Pros

This place was mega cheap, and the dorm rooms were spacious. Great location in the centre.

Cons

The rooms were filthy. Crumbs and rubbish were scattered under each of the beds. As the first guest in the 8-bed dorm I had a choice of four bunk beds. All four stood on top of a pile of filth, which looked like it had been there for months.

Also, when I gave this place a 5/10 rating on Booking, they decided to cancel my reservation and claimed I’d never stayed there…

I’m not sure if cancelling a booking removes the rating from their overall score, but that may explain their suspiciously high 9.2 rating from over 430 reviews…

Overall

One to avoid. I’ve stayed in worse places, but this one isn’t very good and there’s a far better option almost next door.

Center Hostel – £5/$6 Per Night

Pros

The staff here were very welcoming and friendly. It’s super cheap, the bathrooms were clean and spacious. The beds have privacy curtains on them which is always a nice touch, and the lockers were large.

There’s also a moderately-sized kitchen area which is kept clean and well maintained. Plus there’s a lounge area to chill. And they tried to help arrange a walking tour, although it’s not them who run the tours, and I wasn’t able to do one because they weren’t running in early March. Not the fault of the hostel.

The location is also fantastic, right in the centre of everywhere you may want to see.

Cons

The wifi here was very weak.

Overall

By far the best hostel to stay in Pristina. At least compared to its near-namesake. This place has a very homely feel to it, and despite costing an extra £1 a night, it’s absolutely worth the upgrade.

Is Kosovo a Good Place to Visit?

I’m going to be honest…

Kosovo is a hard sell from a tourism perspective. Sure, if you like history, there’s something for you here. And the Bear Sanctuary is fun. But perhaps not coming all the way to a different country for.

Kosovo is the perfect litmus test for “I’m a traveller, not a tourist”. The traveller will see something positive in Kosovo. The tourist will leave disappointed.

Kosovo is a land of kind people. When I first got off the bus from Nis, which is where I came from in Serbia, I saw a shop with a Kosovo flag alongside an Albanian flag.

The shop owner saw me taking an interest in these flags, handed me a free bottle of water and said with a smile on his face “welcome to Kosovo”.

These are the things I will positively remember Kosovo for. The small gestures and the kind people.

If culture and people interest you, then visit Kosovo. You will probably enjoy it. If you only want activities and attractions, consider going elsewhere.

Kosovo was one of many stops on my journey to visit every country in the world. If you wish to read about everywhere else I’ve been to, please check out the destinations page.