Indonesia: Mostly Visiting Bali…And That’s Okay!

The Country That Has it All

A trip to Indonesia is a rite of passage for many backpackers. Having previously never travelled outside of Europe and the US/Canada, many Westerners will make the long trip down to Indonesia. From here they may experience the unique and fascinating Komodo Island. Then there’s impressive Mount Bromo or the vast jungles of Indonesian Borneo. The majority however will not go to any of these places. Instead they will gravitate towards one small island in this giant country. They will instead be visiting Bali.

This post focuses on my own adventures visiting Bali and talks of good (and not so good) places to go. My only other stop in Indonesia was a short trip to Jakarta, a city with little of interest, meaning this post currently focuses on Bali.

Bali is a small part of Indonesia, and not an independent country as some people believe.

Visiting Bali: The Island of Dreams

As the blog name suggests, I am on an adventure to visit every country in the world.

This is a journey that comes with a lot of sacrifice. The time and money that goes into such a mission is phenomenal for all bar lottery winners and the offspring of tech geniuses or Hollywood gremlins.

What this means is that I need to prioritise efficiently. Therefore repeat visits to places are low on the agenda. A place has to be truly special for me to return in the midst of this journey. And that was exactly the case with Bali.

Back to the Beginning

I had never stepped outside of the western world until January 2019. My first ever trip outside of Europe (and the US) took me to Sri Lanka followed by Egypt for just under a month.

Then came the first big one just three months later. For three months I would be backpacking in Asia, mostly with friends.

A 5-day solo warmup stop kickstarted the adventure in Brunei, before I landed at Bali’s popular Denpasar airport as summer 2019 truly began.

First Impressions Whilst Visiting Bali

I arrived at night, met my friend at the airport, and we slept nearby before exploring popular Kuta the following morning.

Kuta is a major party destination. It is also the main hub for tourists visiting Bali. The beaches are rammed with vendors pestering anyone who comes within a 15-metre radius of them.

Don’t try finding a sun lounger here unless you’re willing to pay. Do expect to be offered an endless supply of overpriced Bintang (the most popular beer in Bali) and a bunch of handmade bracelets.

Aside from the vendors, Kuta beach is dirty. Admittedly, we only came to Kuta because of its close proximity to the airport. But we weren’t particularly impressed.

I returned to Bali with my girlfriend four years later and gave Kuta a proper chance. Did we like it on this occasion? Read on to find out!

Ubud: Visiting Bali’s Spiritual Capital

The first place we really wanted to visit was Ubud. An amalgamation of Balinese culture and tradition alongside a strong hipster “free spirit” vibe. But in reality, Ubud has something for everyone. Kuta divides opinion but I’m yet to meet anyone who dislikes Ubud. A real must whilst visiting Bali.

If you want nightlife in Ubud then you won’t find wild parties here. However if you fancy a chilled evening listening to relaxing live music then this is the place to be. Stick to Kuta if you want the parties.

After a few quiet drinks we prepared for an early start the next day.

The Ridge Walk

Ubud has a 2km hiking trail called Campuhan Ridge Walk which takes around 30 minutes to walk each way.

The distance is short, yet the searing Balinese sun can cause a few more challenges.

Along the ridge we went before eventually stopping at a small cafe for the most refreshing juices of our lives.

Southeast Asia is the go-to destination for incredible fresh juices. Strawberry, passion fruit, mango, dragonfruit. This part of the world has it all. You will not be disappointed if you happen to be visiting Bali in search of wonderful juices.

If you’re feeling brave, the ridge walk also has a love swing. In other words, one of those shoddily-constructed swings over a steep precipice, pushed by someone with little regard for health and safety. But hey, at least the views are nice.

After the juices, we headed back to prepare for Ubud’s number one highlight.

The Monkey Forest: The Coolest Place to See Whilst Visiting Bali?

The jewel in Ubud’s crown is not the ridge walk or any of the many cultural spots. It is the monkey forest, a sacred forest which contains a lot of, you guessed it, monkeys!

Aside from the monkeys, it hosts some traditional Balinese architecture which is of significant religious importance to the locals. Therefore you’ve got to be on your best behaviour here.

And the monkeys are great fun. Although they’re also pretty fond of causing mischief.

Minimise the number of belongings you take with you, consider a padlock on your bag, and be very careful if you wear glasses. These pesky primates love to pinch your possessions.

We saw a monkey snatch a woman’s phone from her rucksack. Leaving your phone in the outside pocket of a rucksack is asking for trouble here.

Another monkey grabbed a water bottle and tore the label off before scarpering up a tree with its latest prize.

For a small fee, the staff within the forest will let you feed the monkeys and take pictures with them. With the monkey forest being so touristy, these creatures are very comfortable around humans. Too comfortable in fact, given their love of pickpocketing!

The monkey forest is an incredible place which I would recommend to anyone. Visiting Bali without heading to the monkey forest would be a major missed opportunity.

The Volcano’s Summit

Bali, as with much of East Asia and the Pacific, lies in a zone full of tectonic activity. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions aren’t uncommon in Indonesia. Although the odds of being caught up in one whilst visiting Bali are low.

We had hoped to hike up Mount Agung. However this was not possible with the volcano showing signs it may be close to eruption.

Instead we were able to find an alternative: Mount Batur.

We woke at 2am and were picked up by a tour group ready to head to the volcano. The plan was to hike up in time for the sunrise.

And it wasn’t easy, although there are far worse hikes. Volcan Acatenango in Guatemala being the one that stands out.

But after a couple of hours we reached the peak. Our tour guide served us eggs for breakfast, eggs which had been cooked using the heat of the volcano.

Interestingly we humans weren’t the only species to be found on the summit. Monkeys had made their way up, presumably with considerably less effort than us given their natural climbing abilities.

We waited and waited and then it came.

The sun rose up above the lake below. Finally a little respite from the biting winds atop the volcano. The mountains in the distance were visible above the misty lake.

At some spots, there were fumaroles where gas came out of the volcano creating tiny pockets of heat on an otherwise chilly morning.

Visiting Bali is incredibly rewarding. Not just for the parties and beaches, but also the natural phenomenons.

When the sun finished rising we descended and headed back to Ubud. An attempt to go drinking in the evening was thwarted due to extreme tiredness.

The Oracle of Ubud

A couple of nights previously in a rather dull nightclub we had been drinking when a man approached us.

At this point we had still been planning our next stop, and Canggu was one of the options.

The man had consumed a few too many beverages to put it lightly.

After some incoherent rambling about his girlfriend who was apparently at the bar, the Oracle of Ubud gave us some masterful wisdom.

“Go to f…ing Canggu lads, you’ll f…ing love it, it’s f…ing incredible lads!!! (Mumbles something about girlfriend), I f…ing love it there, it’s the best f…ing place in the f…ing world!”

This smooth-talking gentleman had won us over with his eloquent sales pitch.

After leaving Ubud, we were off to Canggu.

The Taxi Mafia – A Nightmare for Anyone Visiting Bali or Other Mainstream Tourist Destinations

And off we went, using trusty taxi app Grab to make the short journey across the south of Bali.

A taxi mafia attempts to control the market in Ubud, alongside other parts of Bali. This means that signs can be found warning that online taxis are banned.

There have been incidents where online taxi drivers have been attacked by traditional taxi drivers for allegedly “stealing their business”. Would’ve thought it would be cheaper to just sign up as a Grab driver. But hey, why do that when you can just beat someone silly instead?

Unsurprisingly, we opted with the cheaper, safer option of Grab and not the guys who tend to violently attack their business rivals.

Welcome to Paradise

We arrived in the coastal town of Canggu, popular amongst surfers and hipster types with yoga spots and vegetarian cafes dotted around the town. Most tourists visiting Bali under the age of 30 will probably spend some time in Canggu.

But Canggu is great even if you don’t fit into that demographic.

It’s a land of great beaches and parties. Our plan was to spend one day here just to see what the fuss was all about.

We walked along the beaches and eventually found a giant beach club, called Finns.

Entry was free, yet just about everything else was not. It costs a lot just to use a sun lounger in the daytime. However none of this mattered.

You can jump in the pool, grab a beer, and spend your days chilling in the sun loving life.

In the evening, walk 20 minutes along the beach.

This brings you to a spot with many bars playing live music. There is one called Sand Bar located on the beach. I’m not sure how wise it is to get hammered just a few yards from the raging waves of Canggu.

Sand Bar isn’t particularly good fun regardless. Overpriced and the atmosphere isn’t great.

There used to be a bar called Backyards, the pinnacle of Canggu nightlife. Unfortunately, it seems to have fallen victim to the lockdown era and no longer exists as of 2023.

Nearby is Old Man’s. You might enjoy this in your teens or early twenties, but beyond that… it’s no place for a quiet night.

The plan was to do one night in Canggu.

It was so good we decided “just one more night” on each of the next three days before we had to leave for Singapore.

Canggu may be touristy. But it was also great fun. The “traveller not a tourist” debate seems to ruffle a few feathers. However whilst a tourist is often just that (and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that), a traveller often fits into both categories.

A traveller can appreciate off the beaten path adventures in Belarus and Iraq, but also mainstream holiday spots such as beautiful Bali. Visiting Bali had been an absolute dream.

A Day in the Capital

Four years after visiting Bali and it was time to return. This time I would be spending just under three weeks in Indonesia with a (female) friend I met a year previously.

Our meeting point was the capital, Jakarta. I arrived exhausted after a 24 hour journey from London and spent the first day recovering. My friend arrived the following day after a 48 hour trip.

We tried walking around Jakarta with a view to seeing the sights. But the city was filthy and chaotic. The traffic was crazy. Crossing the road felt like a deadly game of Russian roulette. There was no order here, only chaos.

After a while we had seen nothing and were frustrated by the roads. We had to do a huge detour to get to where we wanted. At this point we decided, we didn’t have any interest in seeing more of Jakarta. We had planned to do touristy things for the sake of doing touristy things. Not because we actually wanted to do them.

And so we went, back to the hotel, then onwards to the airport. Bali awaited.

After several hours of delays, we finally arrived, no thanks to the ironically-named “Super” Air Jet.

From Girl Friend to Girlfriend

Still a little tired, we went for drinks in Kuta in the evening.

Yes. The place I went to previously and didn’t fall in love with.

But this time was different. We found a nice bar and drank the night away. We laughed, we joked, we smiled and we talked. Live music played in the background and the atmosphere was buzzing.

We’d talked daily for nine months, ever since a short trip to Iguazu Falls together just weeks after we first met.

It was inevitable really given the way we had interacted and how close we became in the lead up to this trip, but at this bar we confirmed what we already knew deep down.

One day after reuniting, and my girl friend was now my girlfriend.

Ubud Four Years On

Visiting Bali again had already got off to the perfect start.

Off we went to one of my favourite spots in Bali. For a bargain $20 we had managed to find a place called Padma Ubud Retreat to stay for the night.

Just hidden away from the busy street markets, this stunning oasis of calm and tranquility is the perfect place to experience luxury on a budget.

Impressive temples showcasing traditional Balinese architecture stood by the entrance of this luxury resort.

Two swimming pools lay between the trees in quiet spaces with minimal other people around.

Breakfast was just as enjoyable. Eggs and pancakes were amongst the limited, albeit wonderful options on offer, as is standard in Bali. With fruit also included. However the colourful juices were the icing on the cake, much needed refreshment on a muggy morning in Indonesia.

The following day we returned to the monkey forest. It was just as fun as I remembered. On the way out a snake was lying in wait. Keeping my distance didn’t stop it from lashing out. To this day I wonder which kind of snake it was.

Unfortunately we weren’t able to book a second night at Padma Ubud Retreat. We opted for one of the cheapest options around instead staying at Kenari Diwang on the other side of town for a bargain $8.

As a budget option, it was very good with friendly staff, a nice room and breakfast. Not to mention lovely balcony views. The only real drawbacks were the location, a bit of a trek from the centre, and aggressive dogs outside.

Visiting the Nusa Islands

After Padma Ubud Retreat had given us a taste for luxury on a budget, my girlfriend wanted to stay in a specific hotel after being drawn in by the pictures on Booking dot com.

The price also intrigued us, with it costing $25 on some nights and $100 on most others.

So off we went to a new destination, with our sole objective being to spend a night in this hotel based on the small island of Nusa Ceningan.

We took a taxi to the harbour in Sanur, from where we got a boat to Nusa Lembongan, an island worth visiting.

Arrival however came with an unexpected surprise.

There was no port. Instead the boat stopped in the water and we were expected to walk towards the beach.

With phones in pockets, several heavy bags and shoes to carry on top, this was no easy feat. Waves constantly came in, then out, then in again.

We nervously stepped off the boat and hurried to the shore. Thankfully we made it with everything in tact. Wet feet with no towel to hand was the only annoyance.

From here we decided to walk for 50 minutes from Nusa Lembongan to its tiny neighbour, connected by a small bridge.

I decided against telling my girlfriend about eight deaths and thirty injuries which had occurred as a result of that very same bridge collapsing a few years earlier.

I shared this story with her after the return journey the following day.

Booking Dot Com vs Reality

Hot and sweating from the humid Indonesian climate, we eventually arrived at The Waterfront Beach House in Nusa Ceningan.

And to be honest it was a little underwhelming.

The heavenly turquoise waters were nowhere to be seen. Instead only seaweed-covered tide flats stood before us.

The hotel was also pretty basic. Reception was just a desk with a roof on top.

The one plus point was the bedroom which had a much more romantic feel than the surrounding views.

The hotel had been our sole purpose for coming to Nusa Ceningan. Therefore we didn’t explore. Instead we had a quiet night in before returning to Nusa Lembongan the following day.

This hotel wasn’t quite the dream budget accommodation you would associate with visiting Bali.

Clinging on for Dear Life

Rather than walking in the sweaty heat once again, we opted for the quick option.

Only motorbike-like-scooters and pedestrians can cross the bridge between the two smaller Nusa islands. Which meant a scooter was our only alternative option.

And that’s what we did. Although admittedly because we’d been promised a “taxi” and when we realised it was actually a scooter, we felt too far in to back out.

Then we went. The owner and his wife took us to their bikes. I got on his bike, uncomfortably wrapping my arms around him to avoid becoming another unfortunate road statistic. My girlfriend did the same with his wife.

The cool breeze felt refreshing as we whizzed towards the bridge. Across we went, clattering with each wooden slat we passed over. Hearts racing as we wobbled along perilously close to the edges.

Fortunately we crossed without incident and continued to the port, with a brief ATM stop along the way.

Mission accomplished.

A Day of Relaxation

Travel is exhausting. Travel is a bit of everything.

Intrepid adventures to far-flung corners of the globe, remote mountain villages and dangerous war zones. That is travel.

Partying with fellow Europeans in Asia, drinking cocktails on glistening beaches and chilling with your girlfriend in posh hotels in the most touristy spots in Bali. That is also travel.

And the latter is very much what we focused on in Bali.

To read about more rugged adventures, check out my post on visiting Myanmar. I have also written a detailed logistics report on how to visit Myanmar, should you wish to head there any time soon.

And relax is what we did back in Nusa Lembongan.

Just two minutes from the beach was a hidden oasis called Perdana Homestay.

This place had just about everything. At just under $20 for two people it was very affordable. The rooms were nice, but the outside of this property is what really gave its appeal.

We were nestled into a quiet place between the trees with a wonderful refreshing swimming pool to escape the worst of the sun.

The evening was spent drinking in the sunset at a beachside bar before we returned for the night.

The pancakes provided by the lovely staff at Perdana would have been perfect if not for a little unwanted extra protein on mine.

Unfortunately a mosquito had been mixed into the pancake which did take the shine off slightly.

Soon it was time to wade through the water and head back to Sanur.

Canggu in 2023: Would it be the Same Whilst Visiting Bali Four Years on?

We arrived in Sanur shoeless, not wanting to put wet shoes on after wading through the water once again. This led to the mistake of burying shoes deep in our bags where it was hard to access them quickly.

Something that didn’t seem like a bad idea until we stepped off the boat onto the pier in Sanur.

The baking sun had turned the decking into a scorching furnace which burned our feet with every single step and no shade to be seen.

I had lost my girlfriend during the commotion leaving the boat, and raced down the pier to try and catch up with her.

Eventually we were reunited. We soon raced back to the port building and finally dug out our our shoes to avoid a further frying.

We soon found a taxi and went off to Canggu.

Anyone for Ratatouille?

Cheap options in Canggu were extremely limited. We ended up booking a night at an eco guesthouse which was one of the cheapest places. Ah, big mistake…

Our room was completely exposed to the elements. There were no real windows. We pulled the blinds down but anyone capable of climbing could’ve come in the room. Not to mention it wasn’t safe to leave valuables here. Oh, and the bugs. It was paradise for bugs.

We locked the door (not that it was going to make much difference) and went for a swim. At least the pool was nice. A rare plus point for this particular accommodation.

In the evening, things started to go wrong. We were lying down ready to sleep when I saw movement.

I sat up, looked to the left and watched carefully. Was something in our room?

And then I saw it again, the figure that dashed past a moment ago was not a figment of my imagination.

It was a rat.

There is no bigger red flag than a rat coming in your room. At best these creatures could gnaw through your belongings. At worst they could kill you with a wide range of deadly diseases.

Immediately I dressed and ran down to reception. No receptionists were around at this late hour. Thankfully, they did have security on hand, and these guys could not have been more helpful. Thank you Abdul for your help.

Abdul tried to contact reception. He said there was another room available. Would we like to see it?

I said yes without hesitation. Not realising it was in a different hotel a few minutes down the road.

I got on the back of Abdul’s scooter riding for 3 minutes through the dark to reach the new place. I would be checking that the room was suitable before talking with my girlfriend and hopefully moving our stuff.

The new place seemed okay. No open areas for rats to come in. It wasn’t quite the Hilton but crucially it wasn’t a bubonic plague factory either.

Back to the eco house (of horrors) I went. My girlfriend looked terrified.

“What’s wrong?” I asked.

It turns out the rat had returned. My girlfriend didn’t see it initially, but this time she saw it dash along the walls right past all our bags and clothing.

Expecting the new room to be part of the same complex, I had left my phone in the room. When my girlfriend tried to ring me, the ringtone of my phone went off right in front of her and I remained unaware that the rat was back.

I told her about the new place and off we went. Abdul had a tuk tuk this time and was able to take both of us with all bags for a much needed sleep.

Every Dark Cloud…

With hearts still racing, we struggled to sleep before eventually managing to do so and see in the following day.

After packing and leaving as soon as possible it was time to start the fight back.

Breakfast was included in the room rate, however we really didn’t fancy eating it given the fact that rodents run wild in this place.

Besides, it was all vegan food. Not particularly inclusive for anyone who enjoys their protein, or anything of substance really.

We went to reception and explained the events of the previous night. At this point we demanded a refund for the $30 room.

Reception called the higher ups. We were left to wait a while.

And sure enough our patience paid off. We received a full refund and a free room for the night.

Was the free room worth it? Hmm, not so sure about that.

We went on to explore more of Canggu, laughing as we left the eco guesthouse and saw ratatouille on the menu.

The vegans would be horrified to know this wasn’t quite a vegetable stew…

In all fairness, the staff at the guesthouse deserve a 10/10 for doing everything they could to help in bad circumstances.

Retracing Old Steps

I absolutely loved Canggu whilst first visiting Bali in 2019. It was paradise. As a result I was keen to show my girlfriend just how amazing it was.

And after the rat incident, we moved to a new place 20 minutes along the beach. Putu Guesthouse was the name of this one. And whilst it was certainly no-frills, it was cheap by Canggu standards ($19 per night) and had all the basics combined with a friendly owner. Just a 5 minute walk from bustling Finns Beach Club, it offered a tranquil oasis away from the busy streets in a small compound filled with beautiful Balinese architecture.

We spent three nights here spending the majority of our time between bars and beaches. Unfortunately with personal favourite Backyards now gone, Canggu didn’t have the same buzz as four years previously. And Finns was nice, but not quite the pinnacle as I had remembered it previously. Perhaps this was a sign I was getting old.

The Crazy Cat Lady

After checking out in Canggu we went to visit a local rice terrace which was pretty cool. Although not as popular as Tegallalang rice terrace near Ubud, widely regarded as the best on the island.

Then it was onto our next stop: Seminyak.

We took a Grab to our guesthouse, where we were greeted by a woman seemingly incapable of smiling.

This Homestay was one of the cheapest places we found whilst visiting Bali and had deceptively high reviews, which is why we booked it. However, we got bad vibes as soon as we arrived.

The owner was a Canadian woman living alone with several pets. She attempted to make small talk, despite a massive scowl across her face and a clear disdain for her latest visitors.

She showed us around the unclean house, with her tour including a tiny shower, a rundown kitchen space and an interesting bar area where pictures of dead celebrities adorned the walls.

“Name all of these celebrities and you can have a free beer” she said, in a voice so cold that hell had most likely just frozen over.

Our lack of celebrity knowledge combined with an even greater lack of desire to spend any more time than necessary with this woman meant we never tried this.

Eventually she took us to the bedroom. In fairness it was nicer than the other parts of the house.

In the evening she went out. We were alone in the house of horrors with nothing but her mangy menagerie of animals to keep us company. We were sat in the garden and experienced an eerie feel whilst drinking beers in this spooky environment, located in a secluded spot away from the main roads.

Eventually we found a bar, spent the next day exploring (finding little we hadn’t already seen in other parts of Bali) and went back for our second night here.

After checking out I left a balanced review on Booking dot com. I’m always fair when leaving reviews and will balance both the positives and negatives of each place. I gave a generous 6/10 which was perhaps a little higher than it deserved. And soon realised this woman’s icy personality applied not just in person, but also online.

She replied to my harmless review which spoke of a nice bathroom, good location and affordable pricing alongside a lack of cleanliness and unfriendly dogs.

But decided to write a very snide and scathing comment claiming I was “afraid” of the dogs and stating it was “perplexing” that I would stay in such a place among other things…

I hit back with a slightly less polite review on Google, compared to the fair and moderate one on Booking. And she quickly changed her tune. Firstly toning down her comment on Booking, then dropping little more than a sarcastic “I’m sorry you had a bad experience” in a much more muted response to my Google review.

Fortunately, this homestay was the exception rather than the rule. In 67 countries at the time of writing, I have only encountered accommodation staff as unpleasant as this lady on a tiny number of occasions. Even when staying in awful places, the staff at least are often polite.

Monkeying Around

Next up was Uluwatu. A small region in the south of Bali best known for the Pura Luhur Hindu sea temple.

And this was our primary reason for visiting Uluwatu. We spent one night here with the sole purpose of exploring the temple.

And off we went, arriving late in the afternoon.

Aside from the religious aspect, the temple is popular for two reasons. The traditional Balinese Kecak Dance which takes place daily around 6pm. And the many monkeys who have set up home here. Anyone visiting Bali to witness the religious and cultural side of the island is likely to come here and witness the dance.

It would be the monkeys that made this place memorable. And not for the right reasons.

It started when we climbed some steps to a lovely viewpoint. We were under a tree, unaware of what was to come, when suddenly a monkey dropped from nowhere and stole my girlfriend’s glasses before climbing back up the tree.

This was bad. Real bad. Losing the glasses would make things very difficult for us. We had to retrieve the glasses at all costs.

And so I went, under the tree with the monkey waiting to catch the glasses should he decided to get bored of his new toy.

Some tourists seemed to take issue with me doing this, but I wasn’t prepared to let the glasses remain lost or damaged.

Staff at the temple attempted to coax the monkey down with a combination of food bribes and a slingshot.

After a minute or two, which felt more like an eternity, the monkey dropped the glasses from the tree.

I dived towards the concrete to catch the glasses before they smashed into a thousand pieces.

My hands made contact, but I fumbled the glasses and they slipped out my hands.

They landed on the concrete, but I’d done enough to break their fall.

They survived without any damage and our worries came to an end.

Escaping the Planet of the Apes

We were ultra cautious after that, focusing more on protecting glasses than enjoying the monkeys or wonderful views.

In fact our incident was one of four glasses thefts we witnessed in just half an hour here.

A mangled pair of spectacles lay on the ground at one point proving not every victim of primate-based theft had the fortune that we did.

We rushed to the exit soon afterwards and headed back ahead of two nights in our penultimate stop: Nusa Dua.

Snorkelling for Beginners

With our trip so far revolving around sunsets, beaches, drinks and monkeys, it was time to hit the water. And Nusa Dua is a popular spot for water activities. Visiting Bali is popular amongst those who wish to hit the seas for sailing, snorkelling, diving and more.

Off we went to Nusa Dua, where our first task was to find a tour which included snorkelling.

My girlfriend loves water activities, meaning this would be a particular highlight for her. Whereas for me it was to be a totally new experience.

We enquired about snorkelling tours at our hotel. Just a cool $60 per person. No thanks.

We shopped around and found a water sports specialist offering what we were looking for at a third of the price.

It was a deal, and the next day we were off.

The boat took us out into the Bali sea. We were given snorkels, but no instructions on how to use them. A problem for a snorkelling newbie such as myself.

The language barrier made it hard to communicate. The quality of the equipment was also questionable.

I put my head under water, but struggled to breathe. It was tricky to get settled and try to manage my breathing correctly with the waves constantly bobbing up and down.

It took 25 minutes to “get it”. Yet even then I could only stay under for 30 seconds or so before having to resurface.

I guess this was a lesson in “you get what you pay for”. Sure, we got a cheap tour. But we could’ve done with someone showing me how to snorkel in the first place. Thankfully my girlfriend was on hand to help. But it would be a lie to say I mastered it by the time the hour was up.

Beware a High Exchange Rate Whilst Visiting Bali

Later on, we needed more money. I had some US dollars to exchange for Indonesian rupiah, and off we went, walking between currency exchange stalls to find the best deal.

We found one offering attractive rates just back from the Odilia Tour stand outside Waroeng Opon.

Now, who likes magic?

If so, you’ll be impressed by what happens next.

I told the man behind the counter how much I wanted to change. He counted out the amount in rupiah and gave it to me to count myself. It was the correct amount.

Bizarrely he took the rupiah back in his hands after we had already agreed a deal.

My scam senses were tingling at this stage.

So sure enough when he held out the rupiah for me to take again, I counted it again.

Ah, a big chunk of it had disappeared.

This man was clearly an expert when it came to sleight of hand. He had done it so professionally that no one could’ve seen him slyly remove cash from the pile.

I called him out on this and he suddenly claimed “commission”.

This was despite me asking if there was commission at the beginning and being told no. Something the signs at the exchange stand also claimed.

Refusing to deal with this cretin, we walked further along, up to the next exchange stand with an excellent rate.

Anyone who thinks lightning doesn’t strike twice has clearly never exchanged money in Nusa Dua before.

A repeat of the situation up the road.

Once again we walked away and tried a third time, this time changing tactic. We were no longer looking for the best exchange rate. Only the best realistic rate.

And sure enough, at the third time of asking we were successful.

Shocked at the honesty of this third vendor, I smiled and gave him a hearty handshake before we were back on our way.

Money exchange scams are a major red flag to look out for when visiting Bali and its most touristy areas.

The Downside of Travel

Travelling is amazing. It is the life of dreams and I wouldn’t swap it for anything in the world. However it comes with its pitfalls and one of those is illness.

Illness is inevitable for anyone travelling long term outside of their home and similar regions.

And sure enough my girlfriend went from fine to feeling horrendous in the space of just a few minutes. Everything was fine as we checked out of our hotel to walk for a quick lunch before returning to Kuta. However she felt more and more discomfort with each passing minute, and soon had to sit down outside a supermarket where there were a few chairs in the shade.

I went inside to see what medications I could get for her. But the shopkeeper, who attempted to help, was clueless and suggested random medicines he had no knowledge of.

In all honesty it would’ve been better for him to say he didn’t know what to suggest in this case.

Fortunately, time is the biggest healer. And in this case it took little more than half an hour for my girlfriend to rise from the ashes once again.

It was time for our final stop. Kuta.

Second Chances

As mentioned previously, I never enjoyed Kuta when first visiting Bali in 2019. But then again we never gave it a fair chance, neglecting the nightlife and heading straight to Ubud the morning after arrival.

And so we arrived, back in Bali’s party capital for our final three nights.

Day one involved a stay at the dreadful Matahari Guesthouse where we had to move room twice in one night due to various issues. Firstly we were given a room which stank of cigarette smoke. How lovely. Next up was a room with broken air con. Not ideal since this day was hotter than a volcano’s magma chamber. Eventually we ended up in a run-down room with a broken electricity socket hanging out the wall.

Oh well, as low budget travellers we accept having to tolerate some imperfections on the road.

Nightlife in Kuta

In the evening we found a live music bar and drank enough to forget how awful our accommodation was. AMV Shooting and Sport Bar was the name. And it was great. We went there two nights running enjoying life as loud music blared out in front of us. Would recommend this place to anyone visiting Bali and hoping to wind down for a night or two.

We returned the following night and carried on by going to a nightclub called the Bounty Tavern. Now I’m far too old for nightclubs these days. But going with my girlfriend was a lot of fun.

Our final night in Bali was spent in the wonderful Crystal Kuta, a 4-star hotel costing just $24 per night. Half that when split between two people.

Comfy rooms, lovely staff, an impressive pool, a chilled atmosphere, a nice bar. It had everything you could want from a 4* hotel. Yet the highlight was the buffet breakfast. We didn’t feel too brilliant by the end because the food was so plentiful and so good. Whatever you could’ve wanted, they had.

After the breakfast of champions, a new adventure awaited. It was time to head to the Philippines.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Bali

Whilst this post should have been on Indonesia rather than a tiny island in the south, I will only ever write about places I have experienced.

And Bali is one of my favourite places in the world.

As “Adventure to Every Country” you may think I’m all about rugged adventures to Myanmar and Honduras. And yes, I LOVE that kind of travel. However there is also a place for more mainstream touristy stops.

Visiting Bali is absolutely worthwhile. Endless beaches, beers and sunsets. It is the perfect place to take your mister or missus. The wonderful monkey forest, the kind Balinese people and the beautiful local architecture all add to the appeal.

Outside of a tour to Mt. Batur, I’m yet to make it to northern Bali. Trunyan Island and its fascinating burial rituals have interested me for years. From what I’ve heard, northern Bali is where you go to swap luxury for adventure. Yet the south of the island is somewhere I would absolutely recommend.

Bali is a perfect first step for travellers who have never left the western world before. There will be no issues with the language barrier or logistics. Yet it still has a different feel to Western Europe or the US.

If you prefer the sound of grittier adventures however, then you probably haven’t read down this far. But if you have, my destinations page is the place to go for suggestions more suited to your style.