Everything you Should Know Before Visiting San Bernardino, Paraguay

San Bernardino, Paraguay, is the country’s primary holiday destination for the rich. As a landlocked country, Paraguay has limited access to beaches, which makes San Bernardino an attractive destination overlooking Lake Ypacarai.

I found San Bernardino to be one of the highlights during my second visit to Paraguay, and was lucky enough to go during a holiday when it hosted cultural performances, markets and more.

Here I will explain what you can expect from this beautiful holiday resort and whether you should consider adding San Bernardino to your Paraguay itinerary (spoiler: yes). It is home to world class (unlimited) steak, incredible bollos, relaxing beaches and so much more!

Things to do in San Bernardino, Paraguay

You may have already enjoyed spending time in Aregua on the other side of the lake. Aregua is a great day trip and has some awesome things to do including visiting its famous strawberry festival. However San Bernardino has more to do.

I will share the highlights with you here.

1 Ride a Boat Around Lake Ypacarai

It costs 30,000 guaranies (£3/US$4) per person for 15 minutes out on the lake. But you can enjoy views of the mainland from here.

Just don’t jump out the boat, as the lake is heavily polluted!

If the boatman tries to charge you more than 30,000 guaranies, make sure you negotiate down. This is the price that locals pay, so make sure you don’t get “gringo taxed”.

2 Relax on the Beach

Locals love visiting San Bernardino from the capital city, Asuncion, so they can enjoy the beaches here.

Sure, this is no Rio de Janeiro and I’m afraid it isn’t quite the Maldives either, but for Paraguay, this is one of the few places where you can enjoy a trip to “la playa” as they say round here.

This is Paraguay’s most popular beach destination, even ahead of the city Encarnacion which is just as famous for its beaches as its nearby UNESCO-recognised Jesuit missions.

3 Enjoy Unlimited Steak for Bargain Prices at O Gaucho

Some would say that Argentina has the best steak in the world. And until very recently, I would agree. But Paraguay is a sensational country for tucking into some of the world’s best meats, and there are few better places to do it than San Bernardino.

San Ber, as the locals call it, is home to O Gaucho. An all-you-can-eat steakhouse and buffet which modestly describes itself as “home to the best steakhouses in the country“.

And okay, I do find it hard to disagree. Despite Paraguay having several all-you-can-eat steakhouses which all rank as some of the best restaurants I have ever eaten at. In all honesty, it’s hard to say which one is the very best. But each one is incredible.

O Gaucho charges just 160,000-170,000 guaranies (£16-17 or US$21-23) with the price slightly changing depending on the day and whether you visit during lunchtime or dinnertime.

However this includes a giant buffet which has salads, pastas, pizzas, hot foods, fish, desserts and more. Best of all, the waiters will come to your table regularly to offer some incredible meats from the parrilla.

There’s no need to search for a great restaurant in San Bernardino. O Gaucho is all you need, and it cannot be topped round here.

If you do miss out however, there is a branch in the capital too. Eating at O Gaucho or a similar all-you-can-eat steakhouse is one of the best things to do in Asuncion. In fact, I wrote about Asuncion’s best restaurants here.

4 Savour Some of Paraguay’s Best Bollos at La Alemana Panaderia

San Bernardino has a strong German influence, linked to the fact that it was founded by German (and Swiss) immigrants.

Now the Germans have brought many great things to South America, including the alpine village of Villa General Belgrano in Argentina and many great beers.

In Paraguay they’ve given us the fantastic bakery, La Alemana. Which by the way, is also a restaurant, but with O Gaucho here, there is no need to search for dinner anywhere else. It’s the pastries that make La Alemana special.

Not any old pastries, but the bollos in particular. These are buns with a filling, usually the milk-based Latin American favourite, dulce de leche.

I had bollos in Asuncion, and they were pretty meh. But La Alemana turns the average into the sublime for just 8,000 guaranies (£0.80/US$1) each.

Bollos here are fresh out the oven, warm when you eat them, and very filling. Don’t miss out on these amazing treats!

5 Play Sports by the Lake

There are several sports facilities by the lake including basketball courts, mini football pitches, outdoor gyms and perhaps unsurprisingly given the sandy location, a beach volleyball arena.

Bring a ball with you and you have all the facilities available to play for free with your friends.

You also have access to a wide range of water sports including kayaking and paddleboarding.

Lake Ypacarai has something for almost everyone. Only surfers will be disappointed due to the lack of waves here, and divers who should avoid sticking their heads in a body of water that once made global headlines for its polluted waters.

The lake is much cleaner now. Although I’d still advise against entering the water. After all, “much cleaner” does not mean “clean”.

Bonus: Visit During a National Holiday to Experience Traditional Paraguayan Performances

I’ve added this as a bonus because it was incredible, but isn’t something you can see everyday in San Bernardino. In fact it tends to be something which only happens on national holidays.

I was lucky enough to visit San Bernardino on August 15th, which is when locals celebrate the founding of Asuncion.

And celebrating is exactly what we saw by the beach here. The people of Paraguay came out and danced the afternoon away with a series of traditional performances in front of a few hundred people.

This was particularly enjoyable because it was authentically Paraguayan. Since the country receives few foreign tourists anyway, I may well have been the only foreigner there.

Some performances were similar to what I saw in neighbouring Bolivia, which shouldn’t be surprising when you realise the two countries share a border. Although Bolivia tends to have more of an Andean culture which is closer to what you can find in Ecuador or Peru.

Near the main stage you had several crafts markets and food stalls, including one serving delicious asado (barbecue).

Try to come here on a national holiday if you can, and you will have the best possible experience.

How to get to San Bernardino from Asuncion

You can easily get the bus from Asuncion to San Bernardino, although they don’t go from the capital’s main Terminal de Omnibus.

Instead you should take a Bolt or Uber to Calle Ultima, and stop underneath the bridge you will see which horizontally crosses the street from above.

Wait on the side of the road with several food stalls, and avoid checking your phone if possible. This is one of Asuncion’s shadier spots and there is a pickpocketing risk here.

Wait until you see a red and yellow bus with “Lomo Grande” on the front. This is the one you want (and catch the same bus in the opposite direction to return to the capital when you leave San Bernardino).

It costs 7,000 guaranies (£0.70/US$0.90) for a one-way ticket. On the way back I’d advise getting off a little before Calle Ultima, so you can catch a Bolt or Uber from a safe spot.

Read my guide to buses in Asuncion for everything you need to know about how to get a ticket and staying safe during your journey.

Is San Bernardino in Paraguay Safe to Visit?

Paraguay is one of the safest Latin American countries to visit and San Bernardino is one of Paraguay’s safest spots. I’ve even written a detailed guide on how safe Paraguay is.

Generally, poverty is a big factor for attracting crime, and San Bernardino is the playground of Paraguay’s rich and famous, therefore there’s little to worry about here.

It’s a peaceful place with an upbeat vibe where you will be surrounded by locals who come solely to enjoy themselves.

You should never let your guard down when it comes to safety, but San Bernardino is as safe as it gets in Paraguay.

If you’re still on the fence after reading this, let me help plan your visit for you!

When is the Best Time to Visit San Bernardino in Paraguay?

San Bernardino is most popular amongst locals in the summer (December-February), as they flee the searing heat of Asuncion.

In fact they will often rent holiday homes with swimming pools for US$2,000 per week (£1,500) to chill in the sun, have easy access to the beach, and end their days with world class steak at O Gaucho.

Summertime is the best time to visit San Bernardino if you want access to everything. Many bars and restaurants will only open up during this time of year.

The rest of the year is slightly cooler however and may be a better time for you if you want to enjoy a more comfortable climate and much smaller crowds.

The best time to come to Paraguay overall is during the spring, but for San Bernardino it’s undoubtably the summer.

Is San Bernardino Worth Visiting?

San Bernardino in Paraguay is worth visiting. It’s a little different from the rest of the country with its holiday resort environment and an abundance of activities to keep you entertained.

Paraguay is a country with a lot of charm, but little in the way of major tourist activities. San Bernardino is one of the few spots where tourists are the main target audience. I would recommend coming to Paraguay, and making this one of your key destinations.

It is popular to travel here on a day trip from Asuncion, although there are a few hotels starting from around £50 (US$65) per night if you wish to stay longer. Yet the hotel selection is limited, and prices go up in the summer unless you book months in advance.

Regardless of how long you stay, you should ensure San Bernardino is on your Paraguay itinerary.