3 Week Peru Itinerary: From Lima to Cusco
I spent 24 days in Peru, and it quickly became one of my favorite countries in the world. This 3 week Peru itinerary will cover everywhere I went, and give you an idea of what you can see and do in this spectacular country.
From foodie capital Lima, to the “budget Galapagos” near Paracas, where you can see penguins and sealions.
From sandy desert oasis Huacachina, to Arequipa, which may well be the world’s most beautiful city.
From archeological wonders such as Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, to stunning Mount Vinicuna (Rainbow Mountain).
Peru has something for everyone. And I’ll explain below what you can do in this magical country in 3 weeks.
3 Week Peru Trip Budget: How Much do you Need?
Peru is very cheap. In fact it is one of Latin America’s cheapest countries.
I’ve posted a table just at the bottom of this section showing all of my daily costs over 24 days in Peru. They worked out at £35.92 per day (around US$47).
Transport (within the country) was the lowest expense working out at just over £90 (US$117) overall or £3.76 per day (US$5). Almost two thirds of these costs came from long-distance night buses from Huacachina to Arequipa and from Arequipa to Cusco.
I mostly stayed in hostel dorm rooms, which made accommodation super cheap. Even when I did stay in a private room, it only cost just over £18 (US$23) per day. And I was a solo traveller paying for a 2-person room. Share a room and that cost is instantly slashed in half, which makes private rooms just as cheap as shared dorms if you aren’t travelling alone. My total accommodation costs were £152.84 (US$199) overall or £6.37 (US$8) per day.
I spent nothing on accommodation on 6 occasions, although in reality, those costs were moved to other sections. Twice I slept on night buses, with the costs included as “transport”. And 4 times I slept in various places during the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. I paid around £185 (US$240) for this, and included everything covered by the tour (including accommodation) as “activities”.
That tour, which also included Machu Picchu entry among other things, made up over 50% of my activities spending. When you spread the cost out over 5 days, it’s pretty affordable overall. If you look at the rest of my activities spending, most of the other costs were for day trips to Colca Canyon and Rainbow Mountain and entry to the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo).
If you’re into street food, you can just about halve the £216 (US$281) I spent on food or drink.
Please note that alcohol is included as “activities”, and is responsible for a good chunk of my spending on July 21st.
In England, the average monthly rental cost for a property is £1,276 (US$1,657). Across 24 days that works out at £1,007 (US$1,308). In other words, my entire Peru trip cost less than property costs alone back home.
Now you may be from the US or elsewhere, but that bit of perspective shows us just how cheap this country is.
Flight costs are the only expenses missing from my figures below, as I took buses to and from the country. I came down from Guayaquil in Ecuador (which is definitely not safe to visit right now) and left to visit Copacabana in Bolivia.
But for return flights, you’re looking at a minimum of £250 (US$324) from the USA and £650 ($844) from Europe. Or Spain to be more specific.
So unless you’re doing a long-term backpacking trip through South America as I was, you will need to factor these costs into your trip too.
I paid £49 (US$63) for the bus from Guayaquil to Lima, and £25 (US$32) to get from Cusco to Copacabana, just so you have an idea of overland transport costs.
3 Week Peru Itinerary
Let’s get into what you came here to see. I’ve slightly altered the recommended days in my suggested itinerary compared to what I actually did. Firstly, because I was in Peru for 3 weeks and 3 days, so I’ve narrowed it down to exactly 3 weeks. And secondly, because I spend several days in Cusco arranging a Machu Picchu tour. Cusco is great, but you don’t need so many days of downtime.
Lima (Days 1-4)
Lima divides opinion. It’s the one place in Peru that many people, myself included, didn’t really enjoy.
But travel is subjective and your tastes may be slightly different to mine. Plus I’ve since learnt that I was in the wrong places.
The best places to stay in Lima are Barranco and Miraflores. I stayed near the historical centre (Centro Historico) which is a 20-30 minute drive from these two locations. It’s worth visiting the historical centre, but it isn’t the most exciting place to stay.
Also, Lima’s weather is notoriously gloomy. Go between December-March for sunny weather, otherwise you’ll experience persistently overcast skies.
Your first day will probably be a write-off as you’ll most likely be arriving on the back of a long and tiring journey, regardless of whether you flew into Lima Airport or took the bus from a neighbouring country. So it’s best to start with light activities.
Catacombs of Lima
Travel is about seeing things you won’t find at home. And the catacombs certainly tick the box for uniqueness.
They are located inside the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco in the historical centre of Lima. For just £4/US$5, you can take a guided tour of the building.
Towards the end is when it gets interesting. That’s when you get to the catacombs underneath the basilica.
There are 25,000 bodies (some say up to 70,000) buried underneath, and a fair few of them have the skulls and bones laid out in a decorative manner.
The catacombs are open daily from 10am-8pm.
Dinner at the World’s Best Restaurant
Admittedly, “world’s best restaurant” is subjective, based on your tastes, and everyone will have a differing opinion. After all, my opinion of the world’s best food would be the wonderful steak in Argentina, although a vegetarian probably wouldn’t agree.
However, a Peruvian fine dining restaurant called Central was ranked the best in the world in 2023, so it is a big deal for foodies.
You can book reservations on Central’s website, although it can take months to find an available slot. They generally open reservations around 2-3 months in advance for blocks of 3 months at a time. Meaning in July, they will open bookings for October, November and December for example.
This is no place for a budget backpacker however. You will literally be paying hundreds of pounds/dollars/euros to eat here. So factor that in if you’re a foodie, or perhaps skip it if this isn’t a bucket list experience for you.
Do a Free Walking Tour of the Historic Centre
Free walking tours are great, and I often do them in major cities across the world. They take around 2 hours on average, and a local guide will show you the best places to go, whilst also teaching you the history.
I did a tour of the historic centre and learnt a lot about the area whilst seeing some of Lima’s impressive colonial architecture.
At the end of the tour we were even given pisco sours to try! Pisco is a grape-based brandy which is as popular in Peru as vodka is in Russia, or beer in the UK.
Free walking tours are always more fun when we get to sample the local food and drink!
Visit Barranco – Lima’s Bohemian Neighbourhood
Along with Miraflores, Barranco is the most popular part of the capital.
It’s full of colourful colonial buildings, street art and local Peruvian cuisine. All with a bit of a hipster vibe.
One of the most popular attractions is the Puente de la Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs), a romantic spot that got its name for being an attractive meeting point for couples.
If you like La Boca in Buenos Aires, Argentina, then you will probably enjoy Barranco too.
Check Out Miraflores
The other neighbourhood in Lima that you shouldn’t miss.
Peru isn’t famous for its beaches, but Miraflores is the place to go if this is what you’re looking for.
Miraflores is especially well known for being a surfing spot. So if you’re a surfer, you may just love it here.
Away from beach life, this district is home to Huaca Pucllana, a series of ruins from the pre-Inca period. It’s also a popular nightlife spot.
Paracas (Day 5)
Once you’re ready to leave the capital, take a 3.5-hour bus journey down the coast towards Paracas.
This tiny town doesn’t seen to have much going on at first glance. But there is one reason why people come here. And that’s to visit the Ballestas Islands, often referred to as the “budget Galapagos” with some incredible wildlife to be found here.
Ballestas Islands
It costs around 50 Peruvian soles for a 2-hour boat tour that takes you around the Ballestas Islands. This is around £10 or US$13.
I say “around” because the price of the tour varies depending on which operator you go with. You will need to pay a set price of 16 soles (£3.30/US$4.29) for entry into Paracas National Reserve (11 soles) and a port tax (5 soles). After that, the price for the actual tour varies per operator.
It is much cheaper to book in person when you arrive in Paracas. Your hotel or hostel should be able to help you with this. If you book online then you will end up paying 2-3 times more.
Tours take place every morning. You have to take a boat to get around, and the boat will take you around the islands.
The islands are solely for wildlife, so you will remain on the boat at all times. And it can get fairly blustery so bring some warm clothing. Make sure it’s waterproof too as the sea spray and possible rain need to be accounted for. The weather was pretty gloomy when I was there, as you can see from the image below.
Some of the highlights include seeing Humboldt penguins up on large rocks. Unfortunately, the penguins can only really be seen from a distance. There are one group of animals that may get quite close to the boat however, and that’s the sealions.
There’s a large abandoned fishing trawler which has been left to rot for 70 years after the owners refused to pay heavy fines for illegal fishing. It has now been taken over by wildlife, with sealions and birds turning it into their home.
Away from the wildlife, the Ballestas Islands are also home to El Candelabro, a trident-shaped geoglyph believed to be over 200 years old. Seeing this saves a lot of money compared to the nearby Nazca Lines, which people visit specifically for the geoglyphs.
The Nazca lines can be done cheaply by going up the observation tower. But really they’re only worth it if you view them from a short flight, starting from £62/US$80 per person. When you factor in the bus costs, seeing El Candelabro at Paracas is a cheaper alternative.
Huacachina (Day 6)
You only need one night in Paracas. Tours there generally take place in the morning, then you can take the 1.5-hour bus journey to Ica, before taking a 10-minute tuk tuk ride (or 50-minute walk) to Huacachina.
Huacachina is small, but it’s also really awesome. There are four things to really do here.
Dune Bashing and Sandboarding
Two activities often combined as one package. Many tour operators will offer these options. As with Paracas, just go to Huacachina and you should find a tour pretty easily whilst there. Again, this is cheaper than booking online.
Dune bashing involves being driven in a dune buggy over the sand dunes and getting a small taste of what it’s like in the desert.
Sandboarding is like snowboarding… but down sand dunes rather than snowy slopes. It’s pretty tame if you’ve experienced something like volcano boarding in Nicaragua, but can be fun if you want to see how long you can stand for whilst whizzing down a sandy slope.
Dune bashing and sandboarding tours generally cost from £8/US$10 per person.
Watch the Sunset
Walk up the sandy dunes and watch the sun go down in the desert. The views are ridiculously good. Yes, you will get sand in your shoes whilst trekking up, but that’s a tiny price to pay for such an awesome experience.
I’m fortunate enough to have seen many incredible paradise destinations across the world, with some amazing sunsets. And this was one of the best. Highly recommended.
Partying
Huacachina is tiny, so you’d be surprised to hear that it can get a little lively at nighttime. The place to go for this is the very Gringo-centric Wild Rover Hostel which attracts a lot of tourists after dark.
Admittedly, drinks are expensive. If you look at my Peru costs from earlier, I spent £43.83 (US$56.84) on activities during my day which started in Paracas and ended in Huacachina. Around 70% of those costs were on drinks at Wild Rover, where beers and pisco sours are nearer western prices than Peruvian prices.
But it’s still a fun place to come, even if you aren’t staying in the hostel. I didn’t stay in Wild Rover here, but did stay in their La Paz branch (Bolivia) and loved it.
Arequipa (Days 7-9)
Arequipa is quite possibly the most scenic city I’ve ever been to. In fact, if there’s a more idyllic city in the world, I’d love to know. Let me know in the comments below!
If you have 3 weeks in Peru (or even just 2) then visiting Arequipa is a must. Let me give you some ideas of what to do in this wonderful city.
Do a Free Walking Tour
Of 30+ free walking tours I’ve done across the world, Arequipa’s ranks at number one. It’s the best tour I’ve done, not just because the city is so great (which it is), but because we even had the chance to feed llamas and alpacas at the end! The place we went to for this is called Mundo Alpaca.
As an added bonus, Mundo Alpaca is also home to a museum where you can learn about what Peruvians do with their alpacas, as well as watching locals knitting using the alpaca’s wool.
There are many walking tours out there, but if you want to do the one I did, you can visit the alpacas on this tour with Joan.
Now I can’t guarantee that you will always be able to feed them, I guess it depends on a number of factors such as whether they’ve already been fed or not on the day you visit. But inquire with Guruwalk on the link in the previous paragraph for certainty on this.
Whilst free walking tours are indeed “free” and you can technically do them without paying, the guides are paid based on tips. So you should always offer money at the end of the tour. Around £5-10 (US$6-13) is generally a fair rate in Peru. Remember, this is often their only income.
Spend Time in the Plaza de Armas
If you’ve been to other cities in Peru, then the term “plaza de armas” may already be familiar to you.
It essentially means the main square. The hub of the city where a lot is going on. And that’s exactly how it is in Arequipa.
The Plaza de Armas here is home to the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa. This religious building is worth checking out itself, but there’s more to do than that.
You’ve got a few green spots dotted around the square, with benches where you can sit and enjoy some people watching. But there are also several bars and restaurants round here.
Best of all, on the west side of the square (as you face the cathedral), you can drink on the rooftop and see spectacular sunsets over the plaza. Highly recommended.
Santa Catalina Monastery
A 500-year old monastery that’s best known for its colourful walls.
The walls are mostly red, and give off a similar vibe to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.
It’s just a 5-minute walk from the Plaza de Armas, so it’s really easy to get to.
There’s quite a lot to see, so you may want to spend a far bit of time here.
It costs 45 soles for a ticket to get in (£9/US$12). Admittedly this is quite steep by Peruvian standards, but it’s still a cool spot to see.
It’s open from 9am-6pm every day apart from Tuesday. On Tuesdays it is open briefly in the evening from 5:30pm-7:30pm. It’s closed on Good Friday, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Museo Santuarios Andinos
In the unlikely even that you’re bored of Arequipa’s scenery, you can visit the Andean Sanctuary museum to learn about Peruvian history through many of the archeological exhibitions here.
The star attraction is a mummy known as “Juanita” who was sacrificed to the Inca gods at an age estimated to be between 12 and 15.
Sacrificing children was a fairly common practice in the Andean countries (Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia) back in the 1400s. A concept that seems outrageous by todays standards. But travel teaches us a lot about cultures very different from our own, past and present. And it’s quite interesting to learn about these practices.
The museum costs 15 soles to enter (£3/US$4). It’s open Tuesday-Saturday from 9am-6pm and Sunday from 9am-2pm. It’s closed on Mondays and Good Friday. Pay attention for opening hours during other holidays such as Christmas.
Mercado San Camilo
If there’s one place in any city in the world that perfectly encapsulates the local culture, it’s the marketplace.
Markets are some of the oldest places in the world to trade goods, long before shops came into existence.
In Arequipa you can get a glimpse of life for the everyday Peruvian, whilst also sampling some incredible juices alongside other foods and drinks.
Stay away from the meat section if you’re squeamish, as they have animal heads on display here, which can be pretty gruesome. I won’t be sharing my worst Peruvian market pictures on here…
The market is free to enter, and it is open daily from 7am-6pm (7am-4pm on Sundays).
Colca Canyon (Day 10)
A day trip from Arequipa, but it will take the whole day, so I’ve included it separately.
You can easily find tours in Arequipa. As with the rest of Peru, you just need to ask in your hotel/hostel. Or you could shop around in the city, but tours are generally fairly similar to each other in terms of cost and itinerary.
Colca Canyon has some amazing landscapes that wouldn’t like entirely out of place on the moon.
It’s home to several Andean condors, which fly overhead throughout the day.
This is one of the world’s deepest canyons, and it’s fun to walk around, but you are very exposed to the heat here. For an additional fee, there are some hot springs which you can stop at later on in most tours.
My tour cost around £27/US$36 in total, including the separate 70 sol (£15/US$19) entrance fee which accounts for most of that expense. So keep this in mind as a rough ballpark figure.
Cusco (Days 11-13)
Before coming to Cusco, I thought it was just a transition point that people only went to as part of their journey to Machu Picchu. But in reality it’s much more than that. Cusco is a great city in its own right, and you should certainly spend some time here before moving on.
Perhaps unsurprisingly (once you’ve seen it), Cusco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so.
It’s also important to spend a couple of days here acclimatising to the high altitude, as you could easily become ill when trekking to Rainbow Mountain or Machu Picchu if you don’t do this.
Do a Free Walking Tour
As you may have guessed by now, I love a free walking tour. They’re by far the best way to learn not just about the history and highlights of a city, but also the hidden gems, the best restaurants, the places that locals prefer, and any logistical information you may need.
In 90% of free walking tours I’ve done across the world, the guide has been a local from the area. And they know their city inside out. On some occasions, I was the only person to turn up for the tour, and Cusco was one of these.
Of course, I can’t guarantee that you will have the same luck. But Cusco was still a pretty awesome place to see.
My guide Casio showed me some of the Incan ruins and colonial architecture around the city, before taking me around the backstreets where we found a staircase which had turned into a mini waterfall as nature reclaimed it.
One of the highlights came when he took me into a room full of traditional Peruvian instruments which he played for me.
We also sampled some strawberry frutillada, a popular fermented non-alcoholic drink, made from corn. Chicha is popular across much of Latin America, but varies in taste and ingredients by country. However free drink samples on a tour are never a bad thing!
Unfortunately, the exact tour I did with Casio no longer seems to be running. But I found it through Guruwalk which is my go-to website for booking free walking tours.
Tours are often similar in itineraries, so hopefully you can find one as enjoyable as the one I did.
Mercado Central de San Pedro
San Pedro Market, to use its English name, is less than 10 minutes from the main square of Cusco. And it has everything you can expect from a vibrant South American marketplace.
Fruits, vegetables, cheap Peruvian street foods and much more. It also has a lot of the graphic meat products I spoke of earlier. I have pictures which wouldn’t look out of place in a horror movie. But as I say, I won’t be posting them here.
The market also has several souvenirs with a local theme. Most notably, small knitted llamas and alpacas wearing wooly hats, which you will see a lot of locals wearing, particularly in the mountains.
The market is free to enter and is open every day from 6am-6:30pm.
Plaza de Armas
Yep, another one of these. But just like in Arequipa, the Cusco Plaza de Armas has a lot going on.
This was the very centre of the Inca Empire, and it’s still pretty impressive today.
It’s a big space, with a lot of greenery, similar to Arequipa, and one standout attraction in the form of Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus, a large church at the front of the square.
A lot happens here, sometimes including concerts. I was lucky enough to witness a military parade taking place in the plaza, with large crowds coming out to watch dozens of soldiers marching to music.
The plaza is surrounded by many restaurants as well as stores selling hiking gear. I don’t recommend buying hiking equipment here as it is pretty expensive. I paid £65 (US$85) for some hiking trousers which probably would’ve cost a third of that elsewhere.
Saqsayhuaman Ruins
Machu Picchu is of course the most famous Inca ruin site, but there’s one in Cusco which you can access by trekking up to the top of this mountainous city.
Saqsayhuaman costs 70 soles (£15/US$19) to enter. Whilst this may seem steep, it also covers entrance to Qenqo, Pucapucara and Tambomachay which are other Incan ruin sites in and around Cusco.
There are ruins in central Cusco, but they are mostly just parts of shops and other buildings with many tourists walking past, unlike Saqsayhuaman which is solely about the ruins themselves, and a much more impressive sight.
Saqsayhuaman is a fortress which is thought to date back to the 15th century.
Don’t miss this as a part of your 3 week Peru itinerary.
The ruins are open daily from 7am-5:30pm.
Mount Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain) (Day 14)
One of the real highlights of Peru for me. This place was amazing!
You’ll have to get up early for this one. Book a tour when you’re in Cusco for around £17 (US$22) and on the day of your tour, the guide will come to pick you up from your accommodation in Cusco.
After a 4-hour drive, you will make it to this stunning natural phenomenon.
The hike takes around 1.5-2 hours to reach the top, and it’s absolutely magical when you get up there. Sure there are a lot of tourists, but that’s easy to overlook when you realise how awesome this place is.
You occasionally pass indigenous people on the way up, with their alpacas. And you can even purchase alpaca meat at the top. Although I must admit I didn’t enjoy eating that! Not the tastiest thing in the world.
It’s very important to get used to the altitude in Cusco for a couple of days before attempting this. I know people who felt quite ill after failing to do this.
Sacred Valley (Days 15-16)
The Sacred Valley is a series of Inca archeological sites in Peru. A Sacred Valley ticket costs 70 soles (£15/US$19) and covers entry to Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero and Moray. The ticket is valid for two days, and lets you into each of these sites once.
Most people who visit Moray will double it up with a trip to the salt mines of Maras (Salineras de Maras) which costs an additional 10 soles (£2/US$3) to enter.
I stayed in Urubamba for two days whilst visiting the Sacred Valley. Urubamba isn’t particularly interesting itself, but is fairly centrally located, making it easy to reach each of the Sacred Valley’s destinations by colectivo.
Pisac
Pisac (or Pisaq locally) is fun for two reasons. Yes there are some pretty cool ruins here, but Pisac is also the name of the small town at the bottom of the ruins.
Small towns in South America are often good fun. They’re usually very colourful with a lot going on, and have several very affordable restaurants on top.
The ruins themselves are pretty awesome. Pisac National Archeological National Park is a 600-year old Incan settlement which fell into disrepair many centuries ago and was replaced by the modern town below.
It requires a bit of hiking to get up to this mountainous site. You can consider it a good practice run for Machu Picchu.
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is another place that combines a lovely small town with some cool Incan ruins that have some fantastic views of the valley.
The good news is that you don’t have to hike for this one! You can walk around the site without a sweaty trek to reach it in the first place.
Ollantaytambo is famous for being the location where the Spanish conquistadors fell to their heaviest defeat.
It’s worth the trip for at least a couple of hours.
Moray
Moray is famous for its circular terraces which look almost extra-terrestrial in appearance.
Moray is a small site, so you really don’t need long here. You can see everything in around 20-25 minutes.
But it’s still a pretty unique spot and a little different from the other sites, which are generally made up of decayed old buildings.
Maras
Maras is generally combined with Moray due to their fairly close proximity.
It’s a series of salt pools clustered together, just as you would find in Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni.
Now don’t get me wrong, Maras is very different from Uyuni, particularly with the mountainous backdrop compared to the vast nothingness of Bolivia’s magical attraction.
And Maras isn’t on the same level, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as this just means that Uyuni is a world class attraction.
To use a football analogy, Maras is Atletico Madrid, whereas Uyuni is Real Madrid or Barcelona. So it’s still pretty good!
But it’s definitely something I’d recommend checking out whilst in the area.
Chinchero
Last but not least, we have Chinchero. Once again, Chinchero is a beautiful small town combined with some stunning Incan ruins.
Chinchero is like a mini version of Pisac or Ollantaytambo, with a bit of Moray thrown in due to the presence of circular terraces.
There’s also a small market in the town which you can check out if you wish.
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu (Days 17-21)
Let’s save the best until last. Machu Picchu is one of the Seven World Wonders, but personally I think the journey is better than the destination here.
There are three main ways to get to Machu Picchu. One is to take an extortionately expensive train from Cusco or the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo). You’re looking at over US$50 (£39) for a sluggish 3-4 hour journey across 120km.
To add insult to injury, after getting off the train you have to pay US$12 (£9) for a one-way bus ticket to Machu Picchu from the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. Double the price for a return ticket.
Don’t do this if you’re able to walk without issues. It’s crazy money by Peruvian standards, and the other two methods of reaching the Inca citadel are far more rewarding.
There are two popular hikes to Machu Picchu.
The Salkantay Trek is what I did. It’s absolutely fantastic and I’ll explain it in more detail in a moment. This is the easier trek to get a place on, and is generally at least half the price of the Inca Trail.
The Inca Trail is much harder to get a place on, as only 500 permits are issued each day (200 for tourists, 300 for guides and porters). It’s much more expensive, and a guide is mandatory.
The Salkantay Trek can at least be done independently, although going with a guide is the wiser idea for less experienced hikers.
Both treks are much more expensive to book online. For the cheapest prices, you will need to book with a tour agency whilst in Cusco. However…
There is often a long waiting list, and it can take time to arrange your tour. If you only have 3 weeks in Peru with no option to extend, you are better off paying online. My 5-day Salkantay Trek (booked in person) cost £185 (US$240), although I had to wait around a week to begin the hike as there were no slots available any earlier.
The Inca Trail generally takes 2-4 days (there are multiple options to choose from) and the Salkantay Trek takes 4-5 days. From personal experience, I recommend the excellent 5-day tour.
Whilst you will need to bring a rucksack, porters will take care of most of your luggage, so don’t worry about bringing a heavy load, as the porters will (quite literally) take the weight off your shoulders.
Also, food is provided along the trail, and the porters do an excellent job of carrying it to each campsite for you. So you won’t go hungry. It’s generally buffet-style meals that are included, and there’s a surprisingly decent amount of choice.
The Salkantay Trek
Day 1: Mollepata to Quiswamiyoc
Day 1 starts with a very early start in Cusco. You will be picked up and meet the rest of your tour group, and be driven to Mollepata which is where the trek begins.
Mollepata is a spot of shrubland with horses roaming around and mountains in the background. The real fun comes later in the trek.
Day 1 takes 6 hours walking across 13km. It’s not too hard (and I’m not exactly a fitness fanatic), and you end up staying at a small no-frills campsite at Quiswamiyoc.
The highlight comes after you first arrive at the campsite however. You drop off your stuff, and trek onwards towards the stunning Humantay Lake.
The bright blue lake, surrounded by snow-capped mountains is a sight to behold. You won’t regret the extra walk to come here and return back to the campsite.
And just to be clear, the 6 hours of walking time does include going to and from the lake. This is the total walking time on day 1.
Day 2: Quiswamiyoc to Chaullay
Day 2 is the big one. The longest and toughest day by far. But that’s a good thing in a way, because one day had to be the toughest. And why not get it out of the way early and tell yourself “it only gets easier from here”?
Day 2 will take about 9 hours covering 22km in distance.
You will wake up whilst the sky is still dark, have breakfast and set off through a series of rugged shrubland landscapes, and beautiful snowy mountains, making your way to the highest point on the trail, the Salkantay Pass.
Whilst here, your guide will most likely leave a tribute to the Pachamama, the earth god who is big in Incan and Andean cultures.
Afterwards you descend through some more rugged wastelands before eventually making it to sweaty jungle terrain, quite the contrast compared to the chilly snow peaks of the morning.
Finally you will end up in Chaullay, where you will camp out for the night. The hardest part of the hike is over.
Day 3: Chaullay to Santa Teresa
Day 3 starts with breakfast. This one is comparatively easier than the previous day, but your legs may be feeling the strain a little from a challenging day 2.
Day 3 is a 5-hour trek covering 16km.
You begin surrounded by a lot of greenery, and the humid jungle climate will be with you for most of the day as you descend.
Within a couple of hours, you will reach lakes and waterfalls a world away from the wintery scenery just 24 hours previously.
Eventually you will reach a clearing with a couple of football goals and a small snack shop. A great chance to wind down from all the walking for a little while.
Lastly, you will reach the campsite, ready for your third and final night of rough camping.
Day 4: Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes
Once again, you will start with breakfast on day 4 before heading off.
Day 4 is a 6-hour, 19km trek.
You will head back through the jungle terrain before coming to some Incan ruins, your first sighting of the ancient civilisation that once lived in this part of Peru.
Go a little further and you will get to Llactapata Mirador, a viewpoint where you get your first glimpse of Machu Picchu itself.
You will need pretty good eyesight though, as it’s hard to make out in the distance. It’s a little like a game of “Where’s Wally”.
Carry on walking and you eventually get to Hidroelectrica. You’re really on the home straight here, only a few hours remain until you reach Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu itself.
The final stretch of the trek will have you walking along the train tracks. And finally…
Your first sign of civilisation for days!
You arrive in Machu Picchu Pueblo, more commonly known as Aguas Calientes, where you can wind down and get ready for the final push the next day.
Your tour will be booked into a hotel for your final night together. And I guarantee that the best shower of your life awaits!
Dinner will take place in a proper restaurant rather than a tent at this point. And then it’s time for an early night, ready for the big one.
Day 5: Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu (And Back to Cusco)
One final early start on the back of a 70km walk doesn’t seem pleasant. But adrenaline will be surging at this point.
You head to a butterfly farm at the base of the mountain, and begin the challenging ascent along winding roads towards your final goal.
There are staircases which give hikers a more direct route than the buses coming up, but it will still take 1-2 hours to reach the top.
And then… you’ve made it.
Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas.
At this point, your ticket may also include access to one of the surrounding mountains. Machu Picchu Mountain is more popular, but you will need to book your ticket further in advance to get a spot.
I ended up hiking up Huayna Picchu, and in all honesty it was pretty dangerous. There was a fair bit of drizzle during my visit, and it’s easy to slip on the rocks. There’s a pretty steep drop if you fall, and Peruvian safety precautions aren’t quite up to western standards.
But the views were still amazing.
Machu Picchu is very busy, and officials will be keen to hurry you around a one-way system, which admittedly takes some of the shine away from this incredible site.
Heading Back to Cusco
Lastly, it’s time to head back to the bottom of the mountain, and trek back to Hidroelectrica.
From here you will be driven back to Cusco and will need to get ready to go home.
Your time in wonderful Peru is over. And it’s ended with one of the world’s most magical locations.
Is 3 Weeks in Peru Enough?
This 3 week Peru travel itinerary doesn’t even allow for the likes of mountainous Huarez, Lake Titicaca which is home to the indigenous Uros people or the Peruvian Amazon.
In all honesty, this is a country that requires at least 2 months to see pretty much everything of interest.
But to see the main highlights, 3 weeks in Peru is certainly enough time.
How Much Should you Pack for a 3 Week Trip?
Peru is a mountainous country, which means it gets quite cold at high altitudes. Therefore you should pack your cold weather gear before coming here.
You will be very grateful for a winter hat, gloves, and a warm jacket.
You can get away with bringing hand luggage only. Minimise the clothes you bring (it’s very cheap and easy to do laundry in Peru) and focus on practical gear that will be necessary out here.
A headtorch is a smart item to bring to any country where you will be going on adventures in the dark. Peru is one of those countries, and it will come in handy during early morning treks.
Don’t worry about bringing trekking poles. Whilst they are super handy to have, you can easily rent them before any hike you do, and they won’t cost much either.
Peru is a massive country with a lot of rugged terrain, and you will have difficulty lugging a suitcase around. If you bring checked baggage, bring a large backpack instead of a suitcase. Although I would say going hand luggage only is the best option.
Is Peru Safe to Visit?
Yes! In Latin America, you have the safest countries (Argentina, Uruguay, El Salvador etc.), then you have Peru in the next tier down.
It’s very unlikely you will face any issues here. Most of Peru’s danger zones are far away from the tourist trail. Namely some spots near the Ecuador, Colombia and Brazil borders where drug trafficking takes place, and the VRAEM (Valle de los Rios Apurimac, Ene y Mantaro) which is Peru’s primary cocaine-producing region.
These regions skew Peru’s safety stats really.
If you come into contact with crime, it is likely to occur after dark in some of the major cities. A good rule of thumb is to stick to places with several other tourists.
In Lima, stay away from the Callao district in particular. Unfortunately Callao is home to both the port and the airport. But if you transit through these, be sure to take a taxi straight in or out.
Make sure you have good travel insurance, in the unlikely event you end up with any medical issues. And follow basic travel safety advice to make sure nothing goes wrong.
If you’re struggling to plan your trip and need some extra tips on safety or anything else, I can help you with that.
Is Peru Worth Visiting?
Peru is an incredible country, and one of my favourites in the world.
It’s fairly popular with tourists, so it’s easy to get around without purchasing a specific Peru travel guide.
Come to Peru for adventures, mountain treks and beautiful scenery.
If your idea of fun is a relaxing city break or beach holiday, similar to what you might find in Southern Europe, then Peru may not be the place for you.
But for anyone adventurous, or looking to try new things, Peru is well worth a visit.
This 3 week Peru trip itinerary is almost exactly what I did (although condensed down from 24 days to 21, mostly skipping downtime I spent waiting in Cusco for my Salkantay adventure to begin).
If you follow this either loosely or exactly, you will have a fantastic time and it will be one of the best trips of your life.
