Backpacking India: A 3-Week Itinerary

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An Introduction to Backpacking in India

Backpacking India is a rite of passage for many travellers. It’s a country for the adventurous traveller with noise and chaos seemingly never ending in this crazy country!

India is a country of extremes. Every sense will be amplified tenfold in Hindustan, or “land of the Hindus” as it is commonly known. The smells, the noises, the tastes, the highest highs and the lowest lows are all part and parcel of travel in incredible India.

I spent 3 weeks backpacking around Northern India, and will share the places I went to, and a little on what to do in each here. Please note the days suggested for each place may be slightly shorter for each place when you factor in transport. Although if you want a real India backpacking experience, the majority of lengthy bus journeys will take place on the notorious overnight sleeper buses.

India is not what I would recommend to first time travellers outside the western world. However, if you have previously visited Sri Lanka, India is the natural next level up. Sri Lanka shares some cultural similarities with its next-door neighbour, and feels very much like “India lite” making it the perfect preparation for the real thing!

A 3-Week Itinerary for Backpacking India

Day 1: Arrival in New Delhi, and Getting to Your Accommodation Safely

If you are backpacking northern India, then your trip will most like start at New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport. Now, as a first time traveller to India with my friend (also a first timer), we had A LOT of problems which started here. Let me explain what and how to avoid the same mistakes!

We thought all we needed to do was to get an internet connection, then we could use Uber to reach our hotel and everything would be fine, right?? Wrong. The Wi-Fi at the airport does not work without typing in a one-time access code… which you can only receive if you have an Indian phone number.

Oh well, at least you can get around this problem by purchasing a local SIM… surely?

Wrong again! You can buy SIM cards at the airport, but they won’t activate for a while afterwards. Mine wouldn’t work until almost 24 hours later, which was a little late for getting to the hotel on the first night.

Long story short, after several hours of going around in circles we took a tube train towards the centre and I somehow managed to connect to wifi for around 15 seconds. This was just enough time to retrieve the address of where we were staying, which was the most important thing at that point.

We headed back to the airport after failing with other options, and took a taxi from there, knowing we would get scammed.

Sure enough this shady character with a massive crack down the middle of his windscreen charged us multiple times more than the going rate. We didn’t care at this stage, we were just grateful to reach our hotel (where staff also scammed us, multiple times). But this was a day from hell, so let me explain how you can avoid issues when you first arrive in India.

1. Book accommodation before arriving, and ensure it is easily accessible via public transport
2. Save the address of your accommodation on your phone
3. Learn how to use public transport to get to your accommodation before arriving. Learn how to buy tickets and where you need to go
4. Do not rely on online taxis such as Uber (or anything that requires internet)
5. Do not trust any taxi drivers near the airport. They will scam you. Unfortunately, the guys hanging around out here do not have honest intentions

After settling down for the night, you can prepare to wake up the next day and kickstart a week in India’s famous Golden Triangle. New Delhi is a baptism of fire for India newbies, as it throws the worst of India at you from the moment you leave the airport. Scams, pestering, being surrounded, being grabbed… These things don’t happen in all of India, but they are common in New Delhi. I’ve heard that southern India is much calmer than the north. At least with the north, you can throw yourself in at the deep end! Anyway, for all its challenges, India is actually pretty wonderful. Let’s get stuck into why you clicked on this post in the first place and explain what you can do during 3 weeks in India.

Days 2-3: New Delhi (Connaught Place, India Gate)

Assuming day 1 is just your arrival day with no time for sightseeing, that gives you two days to fully explore the capital… for now. Use this time to ease yourself in slowly.

On day 2, head to Connaught Place to experience a blend of Indian and western culture.

A park stands at the centre of this circular district, surrounded by a series of shops and restaurants which truly highlight the differences between India and the western world. Many of the shops and restaurants are well-known western brands such as Nandos and KFC, whilst there are also several bars attracting India’s well-educated upper classes. Meanwhile, the streets outside show signs of poverty with a combination of beggars asking for money, vendors selling fake goods running whenever police arrive, and locals spitting blood-red paan (betel nut) all over the streets.

If you aren’t an experienced traveller, this clash between classes can be quite the eye-opener.

In the evening, consider going to some of the bars here and interacting with the locals who love to practice their English with you. The locals found here are generally more westernised than most, giving you a gentle introduction to backpacking India.

On day 3, check out the India Gate. It’s a war memorial commemorating 70,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives during WWI. Our first attempt to reach this spot was unsuccessful as guards closed the gates for unknown reasons. This is something you should get used to in India. Things change at short notice with little or no warning. Regardless of whether you get into the gate or not, have a walk around the local area. Vendors will try and sell cold drinks which are very welcome in the searing Delhi heat. Locals can even be spotted swimming in the filthy bodies of water surrounding India Gate.

Afterwards, head south of India Gate where you can find several restaurants. Stop for a bite to eat, then take a tuk tuk back to your accommodation. By this point you would have been able to ease yourself into backpacking India. Be sure to get a good sleep in, because it only gets tougher from here.

Days 4-5: Agra (Agra Fort, Taj Mahal)

Wake up early on day 4 and take a bus from Delhi to Agra for the next stage of your adventure. When you arrive, go straight to your accommodation to drop your bags off, even if it’s too early to check in. We stayed at Joey’s Hostel which had incredible views of the main attraction in Agra – the Taj Mahal.

To be honest with you, Agra isn’t the nicest place in the world, and there’s little to do there outside of the two main attractions. One of these is the Taj, but let’s focus on the other for day 4 of your India backpacking trip: Agra Fort.

Agra Fort is a stunning red fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was once the home of Indian royalty with emperors of the Mughal Dynasty living there until the mid-1600s. I won’t bore you with a history lesson, but let’s be honest, if it’s good enough for royalty then it’s gotta be good right??

Here are the costs and timings for Agra Fort as of 2024. At the time of writing, entry is 650 rupees (£6 or $8), which is just 13 times more expensive than the 50 rupee price for Indians… It is open daily from 6am to 6pm, or sunrise to sunset as the website says. Agra Fort is a great place to view first hand the impressive architecture built by the Indians. It also has cracking views of the Taj Mahal.

In the evening, go and grab a bite to eat.

We stopped at a very posh Indian restaurant. It’s probably a good thing that I don’t remember the name however, as this place was responsible for the worst food poisoning of my life… Suddenly, plans to visit the Taj Mahal for sunrise had to be abandoned. I guess the point here is that “Delhi Belly” can strike at any time, even if you choose upmarket restaurants. For the unacclimatised westerner, India can be a game of food poisoning roulette.

Anyway, that would be my recommendation for day 5. To visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise. You can get tickets up to an hour before sunrise, with the gates opening half an hour before the sun comes up. As of 2024, it costs 1,100 rupees (£11/$13) for a foreigner’s ticket, with an additional 200 (£2/$2.50) to enter the mausoleum.

Please note the Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays. This is because it functions as a mosque, and is only open to Muslims for prayers on a Friday.

There are options to visit the Taj Mahal at night, with tickets limited to 400 each evening. It costs 750 rupees (£7/$9) to visit at night, and the opening hours are 8:30pm-12:30am.

The Taj is incredible. If you stay at Joey’s Hostel as we did, you get fantastic views from the rooftop. But nothing compares to seeing it from inside the complex.

Once you’re done with Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal, get on the next bus and take the 4-hour journey to Jaipur.

Days 6-8: Jaipur (Hawa Mahal, Galta Ji Temple, Amber Fort, Johari Bazaar, Jantar Mantar, Jaigarh Fort)

The Pink City as Jaipur is known, due to its many buildings painted in this colour, is the final stop of the Golden Triangle encompassing New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.

There are many things to do here. I would recommend starting on day 6 with the incredible Hawa Mahal. This awesome palace is one of the most picturesque buildings not just in Jaipur, but perhaps the whole of India. It doesn’t take long to see it, as you can see the building from the outside in a couple of minutes. It is possible to enter for 200 rupees (£2/$2.50) but really the main reason to come here is to see it from the outside and get some nice pictures.

Next up, head to Galta Ji Temple, more commonly known as the Monkey Temple. It’s easy to take an Uber right up to the entrance. Officially there is no entry fee, but this is India, so expect some opportunists to shake you down for a few rupees on the way in. Oh, and these guys are pretty relentless, so don’t feel you can brush them off so easily.

If you have a camera, the touts may charge you a little extra. Try your best to ignore them, but as I say, these guys don’t like to take no for an answer…

Anyway, the temple itself is really cool. The architecture is awesome, and there’s an emerald green pool in the middle which adds to the aesthetic. Unfortunately, the colour comes from pollution and there’s a big pile of rubbish floating in the pool, so it isn’t all good news…

Make your way up to the top of the temple and you will have stunning views of the city below.

Of course, there is one star attraction in the monkey temple which we haven’t mentioned yet… the monkeys!

Don’t bring any food with you. The monkeys are great fun, but will happily attack if they think you have a snack for them. And be careful with valuables. Your idea of an expensive phone is a monkey’s idea of a free toy. Oh, and they could snatch glasses too. So be careful with those.

On day 7, check out the Amber Fort (officially called Amer Fort). There is a 550 rupee (£5/$7) entry fee, but it’s well worth it to see one of Jaipur’s main attractions. It’s another really cool Mughal creation (just like Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal) with fantastic views of the surrounding hills and lakes. Perhaps the highlight of this UNESCO World Heritage Site (one of 42 in India as of February 2024) is Sheesh Mahal, also known as the Mirror Palace. The architecture is absolutely spectacular, although it does cost an additional 50 rupees (£0.50/$0.60) to enter.

In late afternoon head to Johari Bazaar which is open from 10am-11pm every day. Make sure you get there late in the afternoon or early in the evening as this is the best time to visit in order to avoid large crowds. the bazaar is a sprawling marketplace selling a wide range of textiles, jewellery and handmade crafts. Unlike elsewhere in India however, this is not a place where you can haggle on prices. Pretty much everything is sold for a set price.

On day 8 start your day at Jantar Mantar, a series of observatories and another of the 9 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Rajasthan, the state in which Jaipur is located. Jantar Mantar costs 200 rupees (£2/$2.50) to enter and can easily take up to 2 hours of your time. Well worth it for yet another cool and quirky place to visit.

Later in the day, head to Jaigarh Fort for your final stop in Jaipur. It is open from 9am-4:30pm every day costing 85 rupees (£0.80/$1). The fort is, you guessed it, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it has yet more brilliant views of the city below. In this sense, it isn’t dissimilar to Galta Ji Temple, but it’s still worth checking out whilst you’re in the area.

Once you’re done, head for dinner, then prepare for a 13-hour bus journey to Amritsar. Sorry folks, but part of the fun of backpacking India is the long bus journeys.

The good news is that they aren’t terrible. You sleep in a “coffin” with a private curtain, which makes Indian night buses far better than others I’ve used in other countries. Vietnamese “sleeper” buses still bring back vivid memories of discomfort being crammed into a space built for something barely over 5 ft tall. I’m over 6 ft which made the comparatively large Indian buses a blessing in comparison!

Days 9-11: Amritsar (Jallianwala Bagh, Golden Temple, Wagah Border)

When you arrive on day 9, take it easy in the morning. Familiarise yourself with the city by having a quiet walk round and getting a feel for the place.

Amritsar is one of the world’s holiest cities. It is to Sikhism what Mecca and Medina are to Islam, Jerusalem is to Jews and Varanasi is to Hindus. It feels like a bit of a culture shock compared to the three cities you would’ve visited so far by following this India itinerary.

The dress sense is the first visible difference. India is a predominantly Hindu country, but Amritsar is overwhelmingly Sikh. Sikhs wear 5 articles of faith also known as the “Five Ks”, some of which make them clearly identifiable as Sikhs to the average person. The 5 Ks are as follows:

• Kesh – Uncut hair, generally covered by a turban, the most well-known of Sikh clothing items. This is to represent God’s creation being perfect, and therefore altering it to be taboo
• Kara – An iron bracelet reminding the wearer that their actions must be in line with God’s will
• Kachera – A pair of underpants that are meant to symbolise self-respect and loyalty to the Sikh religion
• Kangha – A small wooden comb to be worn in the hair. This represents cleanliness
• Kirpan – A small knife meant to represent a will to stand against injustice. Male Sikhs who have been initiated into the Khalsa (community) must wear a kirpan at all times

Now you’ll learn a lot about Sikhism in Amritsar, but first let’s talk about what else to do on the first day here.

Continue your quiet day with a trip to Jallianwala Bagh. This was the scene of a real low point in India’s history.

Things started to escalate when violent protests broke out in 1919 in response to the disappearance of two popular pro-independence activists. This led to a ban on large gatherings in the city.

A few days later, over 10,000 people gathered at Jallianwala Bagh to celebrate the festival of Baisakhi in defiance of this ban.

Fearing an insurrection, troops opened fire without warning leading to tragedy on one of India’s darkest days. Up to 1,500 people were killed in what became known as the Amritsar Massacre.

A century later and Jallianwala Bagh remains open as a memorial to the victims. To visit Jallianwala Bagh, it is worth noting that the site is free to enter, and open from 6:30am-7:30pm every day.

The well where the majority of victims died is now sealed off. Yet visible reminders of the massacre remain. Most notably bullet holes in many of the walls.

A large memorial monument, the Flame of Liberty, stands tall in the middle of the complex, whilst an eternal flame burns to commemorate the victims.

This is a place you won’t forget in a hurry.

On day 10 it’s time to hit Amritsar’s biggest attractions. In the morning, you should start with a visit to the Golden Temple. This is the most important Gurdwara (Sikh temple) in the world and an incredibly special place for Sikhs. You can almost feel an aura here as you walk around and soak up the atmosphere.

The Golden Temple has a similar dress code to Muslim mosques around the world. You must cover your knees and shoulders and take off your shoes. In addition, you must cover your hair regardless of whether you are a man or a woman. Cheap hair coverings are available all over the outskirts of the complex. I must admit that taking off your shoes can be a little uncomfortable with the hot sun baring down on the marble walkways. Fortunately there are a fair few shady spots to minimise discomfort here.

It is free to enter and open all day, every day.

There are two interesting places of note here. One is the langar kitchen. Here you can go and get free food regardless of your situation. The staff will serve absolutely anyone completely free of charge. If you want to stand the other side of the counter, that is also possible. Approach the staff here and you may be able to volunteer, serving meals to visitors. A truly rewarding experience. The langar kitchen, like the temple itself, is open 24/7.

The other noteworthy spot is the sanctum in the centre of the complex. This is home to the Guru Granth Sahib, which is the Sikh equivalent of the Bible to Christians or the Qu’ran to Muslims. Devotees will queue up to enter the sanctum, and you can enter too.

I went inside, and photos are strictly prohibited. However, it is fascinating to see this small room which holds so much significance to the Sikh people. I saw many of them crying whilst bowing down. It was an incredible sight to personally witness.

Lastly, head to the Wagah Border Ceremony for one of the most unique experiences you can add to a backpacking India itinerary.

The Wagah border is the crossing point between India and Pakistan. Every evening, there is a ceremony just before sunset to mark the closing of the border. The ceremony takes place in an unusual-looking stadium where the Indian side looks like a small sports arena, and the Pakistan side is a lot more low-key.

It is free to watch the ceremony, which is an incredible experience that should be on the first page of any India travel guide.

Soldiers from both sides will march and attempt to intimidate the other with over-the-top strides and salutes. The Pakistan side is far more formal and military-focused, whereas the India side lets locals come down to dance in the middle of the stadium as Indian music blares out loudly.

Eventually the flags will be lowered and the border will shut for the night. Ever since I first went to this ceremony on the India side, I’ve been desperate to come back and see it on the Pakistan side. It was interesting to also see the clothing differences, with Indians wearing all sorts of colourful and flamboyant outfits. Whereas the Pakistanis were much more conservatively-dressed.

Aside from the Taj Mahal, I would say this is one of the top 3 things to see in Northern India.

Wind down on day 11 with a trip to the Partition Museum. It is open from 10am-6pm 6 days a week (closed on Mondays) and costs 250 rupees (£2/$3) to enter.

The museum is home to 14 different collections offering a series of artifacts and stories related to partition – the splitting of India into two countries: India and Pakistan. This was complicated further by the fact that Pakistan was divided between West Pakistan (what we know as just Pakistan today) and East Pakistan (modern day Bangladesh).

You can learn a little about the two (well, three) countries before getting the 5-hour bus to Dharamshala.

Days 12-13: Dharamshala

On day 12 you will be in one of my favourite parts of India. In fact, in many ways, backpacking in Dharamshala doesn’t feel like backpacking in India at all. This is Tibetan territory in all but name.

This Himalayan town is an hour’s hike from Mcleod Ganj, home to the Dalai Lama.

Many Tibetans fled China and crossed the border into India where they set up base and have remained ever since. I won’t get into the politics and history of Tibet here, but it’s a really interesting place to spend some time.

Gone are the turbaned-Sikhs of Amritsar and the Hindu population of New Delhi. Instead you will be surrounded by Tibetan monks with shaven heads and orange robes. If you have been to Buddhist countries in Southeast Asia such as magnificent Myanmar (which by the way, is a country I’ve written a detailed logistics guide on), then the people of Dharamshala will appear familiar to you. If not, then you may experience a little culture shock, and there’s nothing wrong with that.

Spend your first day here walking up to McLeod Ganj.

On the way up here I saw several cows (a reminder that this is in fact still India after all) and monkeys. On the way back down I narrowly dodged a scorpion in the dark! Therefore it’s a cool place for a little nature spotting.

Arguably the highlight of Mcleod Ganj is the Dalai Lama’s Temple (Tsuglagkhang Complex). The Dalai Lama lives here and can occasionally be spotted. I didn’t see him here, but I’m fairly sure I spotted him walking down the street nearby later in the day.

Now if you want to guarantee seeing one of the world’s most important religious figures, then you can even attend Dalai Lama teachings. Teachings take place every few weeks. There is rarely a wait of more than two months between teachings. Sometimes teachings can be just a day or a few days apart. You will need to register in advance if you wish to join thousands attending. Unfortunately there was no teaching taking place during my own visit to McLeod Ganj. I didn’t know this was possible until I was there. Therefore I’m happy to share this information so you don’t make the same mistake! Check out the link just above to the official Dalai Lama website for the most up-to-date information.

Back to the Dalai Lama Temple, and you can see some awesome Buddhist objects and artifacts within the building. At the centre is an impressive giant Buddhist statue. Outside you can find many Buddhist prayer wheels. Give these a spin to dispel negatives within your life and gain wisdom, if you believe in the teachings of Buddhism.

Outside the temple, you have the Tibet Museum. This place tells the story of the Tibetan people, their struggles, and why they fled from China to India. It’s a fascinating place to learn about the issues they faced and tragedies including the disappearance of the 11th Panchen Lama (second in importance only behind the Dalai Lama). The museum also shares stories of self-immolation protests Tibetans held to draw attention to their cause.

Day 13 can be put to good use with a bit of hiking. There are plenty of options in this stunning part of India. Try and spot some creatures such as monkeys which make the Himalayas their home, then head back in time for a 10-hour night bus back to the capital.

Days 14-15: New Delhi (Paharganj and Humayun’s Tomb)

Now you’ve had a bit more experience with India, you’re ready to dive in at the deep end. Spend day 14 in Paharganj, the primary India backpacking destination in New Delhi. Fellow budget travellers from across the globe will be staying here in numbers. But be warned, it’s crazy round here!

Now, crazy can be both a good thing and a bad thing. In this case it’s both. On the good side, it’s an incredibly vibrant district and a true epicentre of Indian culture. The smells, sounds and sights are what really make India what it is.

On the downside, scams are common, prices mysteriously skyrocket for the average foreigner, and numerous assaults have taken place here. It’s a fun place to walk around, but please take care and do not get any valuables out in public. Be sure to dress down as well.

On day 15, try to check out Humayun’s Tomb.

Now, this is the scene of one of my India fail stories. I walked towards the tomb in the hope of checking it out in the afternoon. It is meant to be open from sunrise to sunset but this timeframe varies and they can open or close the tomb at whatever time they see fit, as I found to my expense…

After a lengthy walk, I was denied access to the tomb because it had apparently closed.

Not all locals were pleased to see me. One man suddenly ran towards me in a menacing manner for no obvious reason. I wasn’t going to take any chances so I sprinted away until he was out of sight, and headed back to Paharganj without entering the tomb. From the pictures at least it does seem cool to visit. Maybe go a little earlier than sunset to avoid making the same mistakes as myself.

After a bite to eat in the evening, it’s… you guessed it, night bus time!

The next destination is Lucknow.

Day 16: Lucknow

Must admit I only stopped here to break up the journey between New Delhi and Varanasi. I didn’t see loads in Lucknow if I’m completely honest. But maybe you’ll get a chance to see more, therefore I’ll still recommend this city that I wasn’t a massive fan of.

During day 16, you shouldn’t do what I did, because you’ll probably come away with the same disappointed feeling I had here. Instead you should check out some of these top places to visit in Lucknow.

After Lucknow, it’s time for the final stop of your 3-week India itinerary.

Hop on the bus, and you will take around 7 hours to reach the holiest city in Hinduism.

Days 17-21: Varanasi (Ghats and the River Ganges)

Varanasi… wow… where do I start?

This place is absolute bonkers yet absolutely wonderful in equal measures. Everything you’ve experienced in India so far in terms of smells, sounds and general chaos… that’s amplified tenfold in Varanasi.

Rather than recommending a series of activities for each day, I will bundle days 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21 in together here. This city is completely nuts, and you can spend weeks just doing nothing but walking up and down the streets. And you will not get bored.

Varanasi is most notable for being the holiest city in Hinduism. It is also well-known for being a key city along the River Ganges, and a place where pilgrims bathe in filthy water full of cremated bodies.

No, you didn’t misread that.

Many people are cremated each day alongside the banks of the River Ganges. And their remains end up inside the river.

There are 84-88 ghats in Varanasi, with the number changing depending on which source you believe. Ghats are steps down to the Ganges, and many in Varanasi serve different purposes.

Manikarnika Ghat is perhaps the most famous of all, and this is where a lot of cremations take place. I saw one myself and the fumes coming from the burning body were overwhelming. Funnily enough, myself and the other western tourists observing the cremation all put our shirts over our mouths and noses to minimise smoke inhalation. We all struggled with how strong it is. Yet all the Indians looking on, acted as if there was no issue.

You should also consider doing a boat tour along the Ganges. Perhaps even more so in time for sunrise to get the best views and the smallest crowds.

I may write in more detail about vibrant Varanasi soon. Therefore I’ll keep this section short and sweet.

My Varanasi itinerary advice would be to do the boat tour, visit several ghats (including Manikarnika) and otherwise just soak up the atmosphere of Varanasi. But do not leave this surreal city off your India backpacking itinerary. It’s truly magical.

Is Backpacking India Safe?

For a backpacking trip around India, it is vital to stay safe. Now, I have been to all of the places mentioned above and can advise on safety in each of them. I have a pretty good idea of how safe it is in Northern India.

However, India is absolutely massive. You can probably bundle around 20-30 European countries together, and they will feel more alike than the 36 states and union territories of India. By following this India itinerary alone, you will be travelling through the chaotic Hindu heartlands of the Golden Triangle, to Sikh capital Punjab (the state where Amritsar is based) to the Tibetan Himalayas, to Varanasi which feels unique even compared to other Hindu cities.

This does not even touch upon Muslim-dominated Jammu and Kashmir, Myanmar-esque northeast India, the Lakshadweep or Andaman and Nicobar Islands, or anywhere in the country’s south.

I don’t think it’s unreasonable to call India the most diverse country in the world. It feels more like a whole continent than a single country. Therefore it is tough to offer India travel tips that apply to each region separately.

However one thing is common in most places included in this particular itinerary. And that is scams. Unfortunately there are far more scams in the aforementioned parts of India than most other countries I have been to (68 at the time of writing). Even then, these are not divided equally. Keep your guard up high in New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi. In Amritsar, scams exist, but are much less frequent. In Dharamshala they are much rarer. I’ll probably write a more detailed post on scams in the future. But for now, be careful when negotiating the price on anything. With taxis (and tuk tuks) in particular, I would strongly advise using Uber (or an equivalent ride sharing app) if one is available. This can save you a lot of time, money and hassle.

Another danger to be wary of is the traffic. Northern Indian roads are pure chaos. Barely a second will pass without a honk of the horn, and drivers will weave in and out of each other with little regard for safety. In just three weeks here, I witnessed one minor crash in Delhi between a tuk tuk and a motorbike. And my friend was involved in another (fortunately minor) incident when his taxi was hit in Agra. Take care when crossing roads in India, and be cautious when choosing a method of transport and a driver.

Now I’m sure your mother taught you about stranger danger whilst growing up. Well it’s even more important here. Do not accept food or drink from strangers in India. There have been regular reports of strangers befriending foreigners and giving them food or drinks laced with something that knocks the victim out. They will then rob the victim and disappear. Now, I’m sure if you accept 100 cookies from strangers in India then 99 of them will be fine. But the risk of this happening is still high enough to raise the subject. If you do accept food or drink from strangers, at the very least ensure you have travel buddies who do not accept these gifts and can look after you if things go wrong.

Now harassment of foreign women (and worse) is a subject which comes up often whilst talking about safety in India. I don’t wish to cast unfair aspersions on such a giant and wonderful country here. But to minimise risk I would recommend travelling in groups, and dressing conservatively to reduce unwanted attention. Even as a male you will get the sort of attention that a Hollywood celebrity could expect in the west. Locals will touch you (without permission), ask multiple times a day for photos with you (I guess this isn’t so much the case if you look South Asian) and often stare at you, even following you around in some places. Try to be low key (easier said than done) and you should be fine.

Is Backpacking India Cheap?

The good news? India is one of the cheapest countries in the world. It is a country with a lot of competition. Therefore businesses try to compete by offering lower prices than their rivals. When it comes to accommodation, India is not short on supply. For a budget backpacker, you can easily find cheap places in any half-touristy town or city. From travelling to so many countries, I’ve found that accommodation is surprisingly expensive in cheap countries when in a town with few visitors. For example, Diriamba in Nicaragua only had one hotel when I visited, allowing it to charge 4x as much as the average place to stay in that particular country.

Tuk tuk drivers may try to rip you off, but because there are so many of them, even being charged 5x the price won’t do too much damage to your bank balance. Competition is fierce which certainly favours the tourist.

Likewise food is ultra affordable. Street food is found all over India and costs a small fraction of the average hourly wage in any western country.

There is no indication to suggest that India will become an expensive destination any time soon. Backpacking India will ensure your budget lasts for many months more than it would in Western Europe.

What to Pack Backpacking India

I’m not going to make this an exhaustive list of every little thing you should pack whilst backpacking around India. Besides, different people have different ideas of some essentials, and others such as a travel adapter with UK, USA, European and USB sockets are pretty necessary in any country. Some items which may be more specific to India include:

• Warm clothing: Unless you plan to exclusively visit the Himalayas, India gets very hot. Bring something for the cold, but ensure the majority of your clothing is appropriate for the summer
• A filtered water bottle: I use a Water-to-Go filtered bottle and it is quite possibly the best investment I have ever made. It’s rare I feel passionate enough about a brand that pays me nothing to openly rave about how good they are, but this thing is vital. It allows you to drink the notorious tap water in India with no problems at all. How do I know if it works? Because I did this several times a day during my three weeks in the country, and can confirm I was only ill once (not due to the water)
• Mosquito net: Now if you follow this India itinerary without deviating at all, you probably won’t need a mosquito net. However, if you visit coastal or jungle regions, then it is a vital piece of equipment to protect against malaria, dengue fever and other nasty diseases. Many places come with mosquito nets built in. However, these are not guaranteed, and even where they do exist, they can often be full of holes which make them redundant
• Toilet paper: Trust me on this one. Many toilets have no paper, and you do not want to be caught short here. Some have a spray gun you can use to clean your you-know-what, but these don’t always work, and you won’t find them in every bathroom. Even hotels can lack paper. This is a country where the western stomach can find the local food to be challenging, and more toilet trips than usual may be necessary. The quality of toilets in India can often be poor
• DEET spray: Similar to a mosquito net, this is a prevention measure against nasty diseases. It’s pretty strong and has a nasty smell, but when the alternative is possible malaria, this is the lesser of two evils. It repels mosquitos, and you can’t blame them given the smell and slimy feel of this stuff. Yeah, it’s not nice, but it’s worth wearing for sure
• Anti-diarrhea medication: As mentioned above, the western stomach is a weak match for Indian cuisine. Delhi Belly is ferocious. Be sure to bring some meds to combat this tricky villain you will most likely face at least once

Things to Know About Backpacking India

If you’re used to backpacking Europe and other westernised destinations, then India may come as a bit of a culture shock for you. In fact it probably will. India was my 18th of 68 countries (at the time of writing) and none have come close in terms of culture shock since then.

Let me give you a short list of things you may encounter as a backpacker in this incredible country:

• Non-existent hotels: Now India isn’t the only country where I’ve booked a hotel through a seemingly-reputable source (Booking) and it hasn’t existed. Saudi Arabia, I’m looking at you! But be sure to check reviews from recent travellers to be sure the property actually exists. Sweating away in the baking heat of hectic Paharganj during our second day in India was not fun! My friend eventually found an oasis in the middle of the chaos where we could stay in a relatively clean and comfortable environment, but you can learn from our mistakes by doing better research
• Everything has a legal maximum price: Now one thing I really like about India which goes a long way towards minimising rip-ffs, is the maximum retail price (MRP). This number will be printed on anything you buy from a store, and it is the highest amount the seller can legally charge. This helps keep costs low and makes India one of the cheapest countries in the world for consumers. If a shop charges above the MRP then you can call the national consumer helpline (1800-11-4000/1915) or complain through various other methods to alert the relevant authorities
• Scams and rip-offs: As mentioned previously, this is fairly common in India. I was scammed multiple times in 3 weeks there, and I’m no inexperienced traveller. Persistence pays off here. If 100 people try to scam you, then at least one will catch you when you’re off-guard, tired and you walk straight into their trap. Even airports aren’t safe. In Ahmedabad Airport, after passing through security, I attempted to buy a snack from the small store on the other side. They wouldn’t sell it to me for less than 3x the MRP. When I told them I know about the MRP, they claimed it didn’t apply (they lied), so keep your guard up at all times here
• Cows: Cows are everywhere in India. They are sacred to Hindus who make up 80% of the population. As a result, cows are allowed to roam freely, and often weave in and out of traffic. Eating beef is banned in most Indian states. Although shockingly, during a roadside stop on a very long bus journey, I did see two men beating cows with long sticks. I don’t know what happened afterwards, but people in the past have been subject to brutal mob attacks for attacking cows
• Pestering: India is a country that favours the extrovert. Locals will not leave you alone for much of the time here. You will be asked for selfies multiple times a day, sometimes with an Indian baby in your hands as the locals love to show off the fact they met a foreigner! Even in touristy spots like the Taj Mahal, this is common. This kind of attention can be fun, but there are more unwanted forms of pestering. For example, you step off the bus after a 12-hour journey and you will be hounded by taxi drivers who don’t take no for an answer. Saying no and dashing down the street won’t necessarily change this. Many will follow you at least for a few seconds. One man followed me for over three minutes, even after “no thank you” turned into slightly less polite ways of telling him to go away on multiple occasions
• Honking: As mentioned earlier, the traffic in India is wild. And they LOVE to honk their horns. Not just on the odd occasion, but (quite literally) every few seconds. Bring ear plugs for a long journey

Now backpacking in India alone is really great fun (I was with my friend for 0.5 weeks and solo for 2.5 weeks here). However this is also a fun country to explore with friends or your partner.

This country is so massive that I could write a 1,000,000-word post on backpacking India and it would only cover a tiny amount of what this country has to offer. It provides a challenge for sure, but it certainly lives up to its “Incredible India” nickname. I’ll be writing more about this great country in the coming weeks and months. However, this suggested India itinerary will allow you to pack a lot into a short time and give you the perfect India taster experience to see what you do or don’t like and can focus more on during your next visit here. And believe me when I say you do want to come back!

This is not a country for a complete travel novice. But it’s incredibly rewarding for anyone who has a tiny bit of experience outside the western world under their belt.

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