Cafe Tortoni: What To Expect In The Famous Buenos Aires Cafe

Most tourists don’t want to miss out on visiting Cafe Tortoni, the famous Parisian-style cafe in Buenos Aires which has attracted elites since 1958. But what is it really like to visit?

If you like Parisian-style architecture and the culture and history of the place, then Cafe Tortoni has a lot to offer, especially with its traditionally Argentinian tango shows.

But from personal experience of visiting, I would say the cafe itself is nothing special, the food is no better than what you’d find in an average street bakery, and the service is slow.

That may sound harsh, but I want to share travel experiences with you from first hand experience and give you honest opinions rather than copying any generic travel content creator who will only share the positives of a place.

Cafe Tortoni is great for culture, but the food is nothing special. You come here for an experience, not a top notch culinary masterclass.

I’m going to explain what you can expect from Cafe Tortoni, why it’s so famous, and whether this popular place with celebrities really lives up to the hype.

A stage with red curtains and black-and-white photos surrounding it, with a sign that says Cafe Tortoni just above it — The tango stage inside Buenos Aires’ Cafe Tortoni

What is Cafe Tortoni?

Funnily enough, Cafe Tortoni is a cafe. Not only that, but it’s the oldest one in Argentina. It’s on the to-do list for most tourists who visit Buenos Aires, something I highly recommend regardless of whether you follow this 3-week itinerary for Argentina or stay longer.

I don’t recommend shorter trips. Argentina is pretty much as big as Europe, and there’s an awful lot to do here.

The cafe is well-known for its 1800s Parisian-style appearance. Which shouldn’t surprise you when you realise it was founded by a Frenchman, Jean Touan, in 1858.

It is so popular that queues regular form outside its doors. Although I have a conspiracy theory that things may not quite be as they seem here… The service inside was painfully slow, and we do wonder if that was intentional to create queues, and subsequently, the illusion of high demand…

The cafe has several rooms outside of the main eating area. One of these is the Alfonsina Storni room which hosts tango shows. There is also the Eladia Blazquez room where speakers come to talk to an audience. Then there’s the Caesar Time room, a small library in the middle of the two rooms mentioned above. Lastly the Quinquela Martin room in the basement is another spot for activities.

What Can You Buy at Cafe Tortoni?

Cafe Tortoni sells breakfasts, bakery treats, cakes, sandwiches, salads and a small number of hot meals including burgers. Whilst bife de chorizo does make the menu, this is not the best place to get stuck into Argentina’s incredible steak. You want to find a proper parrilla for that, of which Buenos Aires has many.

On the drink side, you can find many coffees as well as teas, beers, ciders, lemonade, orange juice, fizzy drinks, water, cocktails, spirits and a lengthy wine list. In other words, just about anything bar the unusual!

I have taken pictures of the menus and posted them below. Prices are accurate as of September 2024. Although it’s important to note that money in Argentina is very volatile and changes value rapidly. Prices in pesos have literally gone up 10x since my last Argentina trip exactly two years ago. Although they retain a similar value when converted to pounds, euros or US dollars.

A list of all wines, cocktails, whiskeys and other spirits on the menu at Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires — Wines, cocktails and whiskeys available at Cafe Tortoni

Why is Cafe Tortoni Famous?

This was the go-to place for Argentina’s elites. Singer Carlos Gardel, perhaps the second-most famous Argentinian behind Messi, was a regular here. The tango icon is immortalised in the form of a statue of himself alongside famous poets Jorge Luis Borges and Alfonsina Storni in the corner of the cafe today.

Fortunately an old statue of Gardel outside the cafe has now been removed. I first came to Buenos Aires in 2022 and saw a battered statue of the singer with a hand snapped off and writing all over his hands and face. Let’s just say his best days were beyond him and this grotty statue wasn’t exactly a good ambassador for Tortoni’s upmarket reputation.

Famous faces ranging from Albert Einstein, to the King of Spain, to Hillary Clinton to Katy Perry have all been here.

And being the oldest cafe in the capital city meant it also had a chance to establish itself before any rivals came along. The cafe has done a good job of preserving its reputation over the last 150 years, despite becoming popular amongst all sorts of people, not just the elites.

Statues of Argentinian cultural icons Alfonsina Storni (left), Carlos Gardel (centre) and Jorge Borges (right) at Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires

Details for Visiting Cafe Tortoni

Opening hours: Every day from 8am-9pm

Website: Cafe Tortoni

Address: Av. de Mayo 825, C1084 CABA (click here for the exact location on Google Maps)

Email: [email protected]

WhatsApp: +54 9 11 2392-6410

Instagram: Gran Cafe Tortoni

How Can I Watch Tango at Cafe Tortoni?

Tango shows take place twice an evening from Monday-Friday at 6pm and 8pm.

Make sure you reserve a spot via WhatsApp for your Cafe Tortoni tango tickets, otherwise you may not get in as they are popular. You are also able to reserve a spot by going into the cafe, although there are long queues to enter sometimes, so be aware of this.

Keep an eye out on the Gran Cafe Tortoni Instagram page for the latest information on time changes and events.

Is Cafe Tortoni Expensive?

Cafe Tortoni is not expensive by western standards. Prices are slightly higher than what you would find in the average Buenos Aires cafe, restaurant, bakery or bar, however they are still very affordable.

Check out the menu to see current prices.

Is Cafe Tortoni Worth Visiting?

My honest opinion is that Cafe Tortoni is only worth visiting for the cultural experience, not the food and drink. I would recommend coming on a weekday evening where you can see the tango shows that really add to the atmosphere of this place.

I’ve had far better food and drink at other Buenos Aires cafes which don’t have the fame of Tortoni.

If you’re really into Parisian architecture, you may well really like it here. But my personal opinion is that this spot is pretty overrated. It’s not bad, but not mind-blowingly awesome either.

Of course, travel is subjective, and you should still consider going if you’re on the fence to make up your own mind.

And I recommend it even if you only have a day in Buenos Aires.

And perhaps it just doesn’t appeal to me because I’m not artsy and have no interest in poetry, paintings or anything else which gives Tortoni its charm. You on the other hand may love those sorts of things, and if that’s the case, I’d say you will probably enjoy Argentina’s most famous cafe.

Cafe Tortoni: What to Expect in the Famous Buenos Aires Cafe